If you’re like a great many people, after you’ve put your new rifle through its paces, you’ll find some aspect of the gun that you’ll want to upgrade. Whether that means upgrading a trigger, adding a sling, or buying an optics mount, you’re going to want something that will improve your experience. That will mean doing research to find the very best AK-47 parts to improve your experience.

In the bad old days, like ten years ago, there simply wasn’t as great a variety of AK aftermarket parts. There were quite a few reasons for this. First off, serious R&D takes an investment in time and money. For the larger parts manufacturers, the AK was barely on the radar screen and the perception was that the market segment represented by AK owners didn’t warrant the development of AK-centric products. Besides, these companies were consumed with keeping up with demand for the AR 15. The AK-47 was just a side show.

A secondary, but no less compelling reason is that making parts that will fit all AK variants is impossible. Because there’s no universal Mil-spec standard, the specs for AK variants generally differ.

Despite this challenge, a few intrepid gunsmiths such as Marc Krebs and Jim Fuller took the plunge and engineered parts such as handguards, rear sights, etc., for the AK platform. With AK’s current popularity on the ascendant now larger companies such as Magpul and Troy Industries are cranking out products for the rifle once stigmatized as the “enemy’s gun”.

Even with large accessory manufacturers jumping into the fray, the big boys still don’t dominate the AK accessory market. It’s still very much a cottage industry, populated primarily by mom and pop shops. This makes for a lot of innovation, with new businesses and products emerging all the time.

To assess this landscape, I queried several of the top AK builders for their tips on customizing your rifle.

 

Customization Tips from Jim Fuller

Over the last decade Jim Fuller has established himself as one of the most sought after AK gunsmiths. His Las Vegas-based company, Rifle Dynamics, was founded in 2007 with the purpose of providing “fighting weapons and training for the fighting professionals”. In addition to offering gunsmithing and training (including very popular AK building classes), Rifle Dynamics sells a line of custom AKs and in-house designed parts. 

Q: I note that you sell the US Palm grip. Any others you recommend?

A: I also like the Izhmash/Tula/Molot grips. The new Magpul is a quality grip–just not the angle I personally like.

Q: Let’s look at handguards for the AK platform. Any recommendations, either in metal or polymer—or both?

A: I have always been a fan of the standard Russian-Bulgarian polymer handguards with heat shield and metal reinforcement. They work well. Most of the aftermarket poly stuff with no metal reinforcement should not be considered for a fighting rifle. It will fail. The problem with metal is heat, the AK runs hotter than most guns and metal handguards can be a problem depending on how they are mounted to the gun. Rails are a different story.

Q: How about a folding stock?

A: We have tried most all of them but the best we have found are the standard AK 100 type folders. They lock up the best and have a proper cheek weld. Some of the ACE products work well but don’t compare to the original triangle or solid folder.

Q: How about a collapsible stock? Any brands you recommend?

A: When putting a collapsible stock on an AK it really comes down to what feels best for the shooter. On our 702 and 502 models we use a Mil-Spec tube with the Bravo Company B-5 stock; it is very popular.

Q: Do you prefer the standard AK sights or a peep sight option? 

A: We have been doing our modified rear sights for seven years which consist of widening the notch and rounding off the corners. We have sold thousands of them and customers seem to be very happy. Aperture or peep sights, on the other hand, are not as effective in the standard rear sight position. For them to be effective they need to be closer to the shooters eye.

Q: How about rail mounts for a red dot?

A: We have found the UltiMAK upper rail to be the best option for a red dot based on the height and ability to hold zero. Rails from US Palm, Damage Industry as well as others have solid mounts but none set as low as the UltiMAK.

Q: What about other mounting options for a red dot?

A: As mentioned above we like US Palm, Krebs, Damage industries they are all solid mounts.

Q: What’s your opinion on the Zentico product line?

A: I have tried the Zentico rail products and find them to be a good option if you want a lot of rail space and a solid scope mount but in my experience they require fitting that not a lot guns owners will have the ability to do, they are quality but not a drop-in part.

Q: How about a trigger group?

A: We use a modified Tapco G-2 in all of our guns.

Venom Antidote muzzle brake Venom Tactical reduces recoil and muzzle flip. It’s standard equipment on many of Rifle Dynamic’s line. (Robert Kay)

Q: How does one go about choosing a muzzle brake for an AK?

A: It depends on a few factors, if you’re running a suppressor most suppressor companies make a brake (or flash hider) that their suppressors attach to.

Q: Can you recommend any types or manufacturers?

A: For just a brake, the Antidote, which we designed with Venom Tactical, was purpose built for the 7.62mm AK, it’s expensive but it’s the best in recoil and muzzle rise reduction. Battle Comp and Primary Weapon Systems also make good brakes for the AK. The best value I’ve seen is the Manticore brake.

Q: Who should consider buying one?

A: Anyone who wants to shoot faster accurately or if you are recoil sensitive.

Q: Does the average person need one?

A: Some people find them helpful. On a 7.62mm I think it’s beneficial. On a 5.45mm there’s so little recoil, it doesn’t matter.

Q: How much should someone have to spend to get something decent?

The better designs run in the $100.00 to $200.00 range.

Q: What about a flash hider?  Who should you consider buying one?

In my opinion a flash hider is a good choice for the 5.45mm or 5.56mm AK’s. The recoil and muzzle rise are minimal compared to the 7.62mm round so in this case I think a flash hider has merit.

Q: What about a sling?

A: I prefer a single point for training or a 2 point for basic use.

Q: Any other new products from RD?

A: We are co-branding a new product line of suppressors with Silencerco which came out at this year’s NRA Show.

Not too many people know the AK platform as well as Chase Sisgold, the co-founder of Definitive Arms. He builds custom AKs and has experienced phenomenal success over the past few years with his patented Definitive Arms Kalashnikov System. Below are his recommendations:

Q:  Let’s say I want to change out a stock polymer handguard because I’d like to add a light, a scope or a grip and I want something with at the very least, a rail on the bottom. What components do you recommend?

A:  The options available from Midwest Industries are a good entry level option and fairly priced. We utilize a lot of the Krebs Custom KeyMod rails, which are a nice product, but will command a higher price tag.

The new DAKM 4150 line of rifles from Definitive Arms offers the same quality as custom builds. Prices start at $1000. (Courtesy AKOU)

Q: What if I want something polymer in order to keep the weight down? 

A:   I am not entirely impressed with the offerings available for polymer hand guards.

Q:  What about pistol grips? Any recommendations?

A:  We utilize a lot of the US Palm Battle Grips, as well as the AK grips offered by Magpul. The Hogue grips and a few others are of decent quality as well. My personal favorite is the U.S. Palm battle grip. At least for now.

Q:  How about an adapter for a collapsible stock?

A:  In my opinion there are only two ways to mount a collapsible stock. One is to utilize the Rifle Dynamics M4 Stock adapters with mil-spec buffer tube which will allow you to use any AR style stock that fits a mil spec buffer tube. The RD M4 adapters also sits the buffer tube higher than some of the other offerings on the market and provides for an excellent cheek weld. The other option, if a folding stock is a must, is to utilize the newest ACE folding stock mechanism, again for an AR style buffer tube.

The RS Regulate mount is a two-piece modular unit that works with many AK variants. It is secured on the rail with a cam-like lever. (Robert Kay)

Q:  How about a QD (Quick-Detach) rail mount for a red dot?

A:  My personal choice for optics mounting on a full sized AK is to utilize the QD side rail optics mounts offered by RS Regulate. The AK-300 series of mounts offered by RS regulate are second to none and absolutely rock solid. I have used them many times on multiple rifles and they hold zero very well. They even repeat zero easily when pulling different optics on and off the rifle. In a few seconds you can switch between a T-1 Micro, an ACOG, or a scope and not lose your zero.

Q: How about a decent trigger group?

A:  A well-tuned and polished Tapco G2 single hook is a respectable trigger group. Otherwise an RSA (Red Star) Power Custom trigger properly installed and adjusted makes for an excellent trigger that rivals many high end AR triggers.

Q:  What about a sling?

A:  Though most will disagree with me, I find single point slings to be most comfortable for my AKs. A single point sling attached right near the back of the receiver, around stock tang, provides for an easy way to retain the rifle hands free and maneuver it freely without much getting in the way.

Q:  What about a rail system for the other end of the rifle?

A:  I like the Krebs rail. The Krebs rail also demands a higher price tag, but that goes with the old notion of “You get what you pay for”.

Q:  How about a folding stock that has an adjustable cheek rest? Something that feels comfortable.

A:  It’s a personal preference to have adjustable cheek rests. I consider them more for catering to optics that are mounted entirely too high above the bore on AKs (a trend that is becoming popular in the AK world right now) and don’t personally find the need for it. If building a more DMR (Designated Marksman Rifle) type weapon then I would still utilize the RD M4 stock adapters and a quality AR style stock with adjustable cheek rest. For your standard carbine size or “fighting rifle” sized AK, adjustable cheek rests aren’t necessary.

Q:  That brings us to a query about iron sights. Is there a product that you can recommend over the stock rear AK sight?

A:  I am a fan of the A2 style rear sights and considering that Krebs makes good usage of that sight in his offerings, I will say I am a bigger fan of Krebs sights.

Q:  What about wooden furniture?

A:  I love a classic iron on wood firearm, it just has a certain feel to it. My good friends over at E93 (Echo Nine Three) have designed a stock set that has modern function and feel to it, but is made of premium laminated wood. It’s a very attractive yet very functional stock set. I just recently purchased one and will be building a demo rifle set up with the stock set. The premise of the demo rifle is to show a modernized fighting AK that has a classic look to it at a glance.

 

Customization Tips from Tim Harmsen

Tim Harmsen, aka Mac, is best known as the host of the Military Arms Channel, the MAC Facebook page and his newest venture FULL30 which features Sport Shooting, Self-Defense and Gun reviews from a variety of contributors. Tim is very much a fan of the AK and has reviewed plenty of AK-centric products. In addition to new media he’s written for Be Ready! Magazine (IMO/Shotgun News) and The Book of the AK47 (Guns & Ammo). Here are his tips on adding the best AK-47 parts and components:

Q:  What kinds of optics mounts do you prefer?

A: The best optics mount I’ve found, without a doubt, is the RS Regulate side mounts. Simple, reliable, good looking, just like the AK itself.

Q:  What about handguards and rails?

A: I like rails because it allows you to use force multipliers like lights, lasers, and sights. The new Magpul front hand guards allow for MOE accessories. But a plain Jane wood stocked AK is also a beauty, so I have a few of those too.

Q:  You’ve also covered the waterfront when it comes to third party parts for the AK. Are there any particular stocks that impress you? 

A:  There are a lot of good stocks, I think Bonesteel makes the best quality replacement stocks for AK’s. I prefer to have a real Russian side-folder, but if I need to replace a fixed stock, I’ll go with Bonesteel most every time. As for rails, Krebs Custom makes the absolute best rail system I’ve seen to date. The UFM is a KeyMod system that is sleek, light weight and looks incredibly sharp on the rifle. Midwest Industries makes some solid drop-in railed hand guards too. I’m also really taking a shine to the new Magpul stock offerings such as the Zhukov, including their pistol grips for the AK.

Q:  How about Triggers? 

A:  I use mostly Tapco G2 trigger with a couple of Red Star Arms triggers in various rifles. The new Century trigger is good as well but my favorite is the new ALG trigger from Geissele.

Q:  What about red dot optics?

A: There are a lot of good choices for RDS’s these days. I’m a huge fan of the Aimpoint T-2 Micro, it’s the best optic out there IMHO, although it’s very expensive. On the other end of the spectrum I’ve found Primary Arms, HiLux B-Dot and Vortex Sparc II optics to represent a great value with optics that rival the features of the Aimpoint. But when it comes to rugged reliability, I’m an Aimpoint kind of guy.

Q:  Is there a quality fixed focus tactical style scope you could recommend that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg? 

A:  Check out the Primary Arms ACSS 4x Compact sight.  At $259 I don’t think you’ll find a better affordable alternative to the ACOG.

Q:  I know that the “cognoscenti” recommends Russian guns but many are in short supply. Are there others of decent quality that you recommend for an entry level rifle?

A:  WASR 10 if you can inspect it for common manufacturing flaws before buying such as canted sights, bolt carrier hanging up on the hammer, improperly cut mag wells, poor riveting, etc. Some companies pre-inspect WASR’s for these defects for an added fee to assure you get a decent rifle. We’ve also learned from recent testing that current production WASR barrels don’t hold up well to extended heavy shooting sessions. There are now domestic AK producers such as Rifle Dynamics and DDI that make guns from many US parts that rival the quality of Russian and Bulgarian guns. The Century C39V2 (latest version) is a solid alternative in my experience as well.

There are rumors of US made cold hammer forged barrels being a possibility in the near future for AK builders which will level the playing field as this is the biggest advantage Russian and Bulgarian guns have had over US built guns. Some companies, such as DDI, are offering guns with nitrite finishes on high wear parts like barrels and bolts which is a step above the Russian/former com-bloc guns.

Tips from Marc Krebs on finding the best AK-47 parts

It’s not an exaggeration to say that Mr. Krebs is one the most influential AK gunsmiths around. At his Wauconda, IL shop, Marc and his team craft some of the most sought after rifles on the market. In addition to traditional gunsmithing, he has designed and patented his own handguards, sights, muzzle brakes, safety selectors and other items. Below Marc reflects on what add-on parts to consider for your rifle:

Q: What if I want to use a peep sight on the AK?

A: We offer two options. One that is mounted on our rear sight rail system, and another that will go on the traditional rear sight support. That latter is for fast sight acquisition and older eyes. The scope rail provides longer sight radius and a place to put the optic.

 

Q: In addition to your handguards and other peripherals, your Mark 6 safety has become very popular among AK aficionados. Why did you come to design it that way?

A: For any firearm that is used in a defense mode or for hunting, you need to be able to take the safety off quickly when needed without having to reposition your hand. I’ve worked on the ergonomics so that this is easier to do.

Q: Let’s say I’m interested in doing a DIY modification of an AK with one of the sporterized imports from Saiga or VEPR. My intention would be to move the trigger group. Would you recommend this for the average guy who has never done this before?

A: Depends on how handy you are. My inclination in this case is to let a gunsmith do it. This is an equipment-heavy task.

Q: Is changing out a stock difficult to do for a DIY build?

A: With a regular AK stock there may be a little fitting. With an aftermarket stock, typically no.

Q: What variety do you like the best? 

A: I like the collapsible stocks the best. Once you get used to a short stock, it can really provide you with some nimble shooting. I like the Vltor and Magpul the best.

Q: Do you have any particular third party AK accessories that you particularly like?

A: What I like are the AK adapters that will provide a straight line across the top of the receiver. Vltor makes one—it goes straight along the line of the bore. There’s a lot of other good stuff out there.

Q: What about a folding stock? Does it make ergonomic sense to get one?

A: You’d get one primarily because of the ease of storage—getting in and out of a car, jumping out of a plane, etc. I would go with a collapsible stock because you can vary your length of pull.

Q: Got any preference in grips?

A: It really depends on the individual—grips are really subjective. Tapco, K-var, Magpul and Hogue all make good grips.

Q: What about third party wooden furniture?

A: Ironwood or Timbersmith are both good bets.

Q: What about a third party match trigger?

A: Tapco makes a good trigger. Red Star Arms is very good as a match trigger.

Q: Do you have any preferences when it comes to third party rails and handguards?

A: I don’t want to come off as arrogant and say nobody makes as good a product as me but I think we (Krebs Custom) did a good job with the aesthetics and the functionality. I’m sure there’s other good stuff out there but I don’t have experience with it.

Q: How interchangeable are Saiga and VEPR parts?  

A: The internal parts are not interchangeable. It’s hard to generalize with the other stuff. They may or maybe not be interchangeable.

Q: What about putting on a muzzle brake/flash hider? Is this easy to do and if so, what style do you recommend for plinking/hunting?

A: Ours is one of the better ones out there. We use a Vortex for a control to test. There’s a link on our Facebook page showing someone testing our flash hider.

Q: Do you have any other favorite third party add-ons that you think readers should know about? It could be anything in the way of rails, stocks, sights, muzzle brakes, slings, furniture, etc. 

• Leatherwood CMR is an awesome scope. It has an unusually wide field of view. Great optics on that and an electronic dot.
• Arsenal, Tapco and, Red Star Trigger sets and (for match trigger).
• AK builder.com offers a lot of things for “DIY” riveting.
• Magpul has good grips and magazines for the AK.
• Both RS Regulate and Midwest Industries make very good side rail scope mounts. I particularly like the RS Regulate product, which is very durable
• Bravo Company KeyMod rails and vertical grips

 

Customization Tips from Larry Vickers

A retired career special operations soldier with 20-plus years of service, Larry Vickers has established himself as one of the foremost firearms instructors in the nation. He travels around the country and offers one-day classes on the AK (as well as instruction in other platforms). He’s also developed several products including a highly regarded two-point AK sling (which is reviewed in this book). His company, Vickers Tactical, regularly trains military and law enforcement units in combat marksmanship. In addition to tactical training and home self-defense instruction, Larry is a TV Show host and has a YouTube channel. He’s also a Master 1911 Pistolsmith, one of the original founders of IDPA (International Defensive Pistol Association), and a firearms historian.

Q: What advice would have for the AK owner who is interested in learning about the capabilities of his rifle and how to shoot it with confidence?

A: The first thing I would do is take a class—it’s worth its weight in gold. Be sure and do research on who is offering the class. There are four basic things to learn on an AK. It’s a simple gun to use and operate but you need to get educated on those points.

Q: So what are the four items that you’re talking about?

A: The first thing is zeroing in the rifle. Whether it’s an AKM an AK-47 or an AK-74. You’ll want to be able to zero the Warsaw Pact-issue iron sights. Sighting in an AK is different from zeroing other rifles because the elevation and windage are on the front sight. Anytime you adjust the front sight, it’s always opposite you want the direction of the bullet to go. If you want the bullet to go to the right, you move the sight to the left. If you want the bullet to go down, you move the front sight up. It’s always opposite and you need to get a handle on that. Adjustments are on the coarse side. My theory is simple. I would put the rear setting on whatever you want, whether it’s 100 meters or the battle sight ‘zero’ setting. Then do your adjustments up front and dial it in. You adjust it and shoot it until you’ve got it right.

Q: How accurate are they?

A: They are roughly half as accurate as an M4. You can “cheat” on that by putting a red dot sight on there. What I tell people is expect to train yourself and zero the rifle to make headshots out to about 50 meters and upper torso shots from 50 out to about 200 meters. That’s the realm of the gun. Forget about shooting some guy at 500 yards. The AK with iron sights, regardless of caliber, is a 200 meter gun.

Q: What was item number 2?

A: Item number 2 is to learn how to manipulate the safety. If you’re only going to do one modification to the gun, put on an aftermarket safety like the product from Krebs Custom. If the safety is really stiff and you’re a right handed shooter, you may have to wrap your hand around the magazine and reach with your thumb to put it in the “fire” positon in order to get some leverage. You can modify the safety, perhaps bend the lever, but in some cases it’s more complicated than that–sometimes in order to reduce the tension it may need some fitting. Then you can manipulate the safety with an extended index finger or middle finger. The main thing is learn to run the safety.

Q:  OK, what about number 3?

A: Learn the nuances of reloading the gun and/or fitting your magazines. Often mags have to be fitted to the gun. It’s a byproduct of two things. Number one is that magazines are made by a wide variety of manufacturers around the globe and vary in dimensions. Number two is that the specs on many magwells and magazine releases are not what they should be on US-made rifles and U.S. 922r modified (imported) AK’s. That means even some Warsaw Pact magazines that will fit on any AK worldwide may not fit properly on US guns.

Also, reloading is not as simple on an AK as it is on an M4. With an AK you need to rock the magazine in—nose down and rear end up. The good news is that once it’s in I would argue that it’s an even more stable and reliable way to retain the magazine in the gun.

Q: And the fourth point?

A: Learn how to clear malfunctions. The guns will malfunction on occasion. It’s often ammo related. There are a couple of malfunctions that are unique to the gun which are a direct byproduct of the amount of room you have in the receiver. There’s a ton of room—so much that you can pour sand in the gun and it will still function but the flip side of that is you can get a live round or an empty case near the trigger mechanism and that can cause problems. Fortunately, it’s an easy gun to clear malfunctions but when it happens is not the time to figure it out.

Q: Do you have any general tips for new owners?

A: Number one is to seriously resist the urge to over-accessorize the gun. By doing this you will frankly turn the gun into junk. There’s a very tiny percentage of aftermarket accessories for the AK that I think are worth having on your gun.

Number two is don’t think you can over-abuse the rifle and think that the gun will keep running. Yes, there’s some truth to the myth that the gun is indestructible but it’s not a myth you want to rely on. Lube the gun, take care of it and it will take care of you.

Number three is don’t judge the AK by the ones you see on the American market. Many of the guns you see are poorly made and improperly assembled with substandard materials. There’s a myth out there than anyone can put these together and it’s not true. Case and point:  If you compare break-downs in my classes with M4s and AKs, hands down, every time there are always more problems with the AKs. I think there’s only a handful of people in the country who know how to build them.

Vickers advises not to over-accessorize your rifle. Adding a red dot scope, a rail and a vertical grip to this Arsenal are enough. (Courtesy Vickers Tactical)

Q: Which of the manufactured guns do you like the best?

A: As far as manufactured guns, I think the Bulgarian Arsenals are the best on the market. One of the problems is that the average AK-buyer is not willing to open up his wallet as much as the AR 15 buyer who will spend half again to twice as much on a rifle. I think the AK buyers got used to much lower pricing when you could get decent kits for very low prices and you could get a gun put together for $400 or less. Those days are over.

Q: Can you recommend any magazines?

A: I prefer the ‘Warsaw Pact’ steel, polymer or Bakelite magazines. You can still source them at reasonable prices. The Circle 10 magazines imported by Arsenal are more expensive than American-made products but they are fantastic.

Q: Do you think the AK makes a good home defense gun?

A:  It wouldn’t be my first choice. It’s not as easy to accessorize as an M4. For example you can put a red dot optic and a white light much easier on an M4 than on an AK.

Q: If you were to set up an AK as a home defense weapon, how would you go about it?

A: You need a red dot optic. I’m a fan of Aimpoint, I think they are without peer. To mount it you need a rail system. RS Regulate makes the best side rail. Up front there are a number of options. You can replace your handguard with a rail system so you can put on a white light, which is the other item you need for home defense. You can get products from Midwest Industries, US Palm and UltiMAK. I’ve seen UltiMAK rails in my classes for years and they work just fine.

Q: Do you have to be concerned that a red dot will get ‘overheated’ being mounted above the gas tube?

A: If you have mag dump after mag dump you may have an issue with heat. But with any reasonable use I have never seen overheating as an issue with a red dot. Never. With a red dot I mean an Aimpoint. Let me be crystal clear on that.

Q: Do you think there’s merit to the argument because of the AK’s notoriety, using an AK for self-defense might give the impression in a court of law that a defendant could be construed as a “suburban Rambo”?

A: I think there’s some validity to that. It’s universally considered to be the gun of the bad guy. If you used it in a self-defense shooting there’s the potential of it being a liability in the court of law.

Q: You said you are pretty selective about third party accessories and provided some examples of products you like. Do you have any other suggestions?

A:  The Krebs Custom safety is a good addition. My preference for the pistol grip is US Palm. Circle 10 AK and Manticore Arms are developing a KeyMod rail that has some potential. I also like the Circle 10AK U-notch rear sight. I think the new Magpul furniture looks like it has potential. There’s the Blue Force Gear AK sling which is excellent. I admit I’m biased about that because it’s my design.

 

If you’re in the market for an AK and you’re like me, you’ll  consult every check out every AK-47 buyer’s guide you can get your hands on.

You’ll read every review, watch every video and pour over the many related posts in the online forums. Even after doing all of that, it’s still a daunting task to pick out a rifle.

To a large degree your choice will be determined by your needs.

Do you plan to hunt or compete with the rifle? Will it be your personal defense weapon? A rifle that’s just for plinking may differ from one suitable for home defense. In the case of the latter, you’re probably going to want to drop the extra bucks for a higher quality product.

How do you discern higher quality?

Price is always a guide, but close scrutiny of the finished product is a must. Substandard riveting and canted sights aren’t good signs, but it may be difficult for a novice to recognize these nuances.

Then there are brand names which are associated with a particular provenance. For example, in the $600 range you can purchase rifles with parts manufactured in Romania (the WASR) or Serbia (from Zastava).

As a first step, you may want to view this video from Jim Fuller, one of the top builders in the industry. He discusses what to look for in a rifle, whether it’s new or used.

 

Rule Number One:
You Get What You Pay For

The first rule of thumb when buying a new AK is that you get what you pay for. A good-quality rifle will have both superior parts and a higher standard of manufacture than an average gun. These elements factor into the final price. With this in mind, I will arbitrarily divide the AK universe into two distinct categories.

The first belongs to the semi-custom rifles coming out of shops such as Krebs Custom, Rifle Dynamics, Definitive Arms and several other outlets.

These operations are run by quality-control freaks and recognized for consistently producing outstanding, dependable rifles. Their firearms are built to hold up in combat or law enforcement environments. The rifles produced by these builders are usually sourced from Russian, Polish or Bulgarian parts. Figure on paying over $1,000 to purchase one.

Let’s classify the other segment of the AK universe as “production” rifles aimed at a broader market with parts sourced generally from Serbia, Romania, Hungary, Poland and Bulgaria. Some guns may come over in a box as parts, whereas others may be converted from “sporterized” rifles. The quality varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, as do prices, which range from $600 to $1,200. Manufacturers in this category include Century Arms, Palmetto State Armory and DDI. Some Arsenal and Definitive Arms models also fall into this price range.

DDI, which began production in June of 2014, is one of the newer manufacturers. It occupies a niche between Arsenal on the high end and Century on the lower end of the price range.

The company builds milled models from Bulgarian parts kits and stamped models from Hungarian parts. The founder, David Fillers, said DDI components go through a Ferritic nitrocarburizing (case hardening) process which purportedly provides superior corrosion resistance, increases accuracy, and reduces wear. DDI barrels are sourced from (US made) Green Mountain Rifle Barrel Company, which are made to DDI’s own specs. DDI models utilize Magpul and Hogue furniture. Although I have not tested their gear, initial reviews from other sources have been very good. Prices begin at around $750.

Palmetto State Armory, a long-time builder of AR 15s, is also selling an entry level AK for $699 and more expensive rifles (with MOE furniture) for $750. I have also not reviewed their AKs but am very familiar with their AR 15 products which are well regarded. If their AKs are of the same quality as their other rifles, consumers should be happy with their offerings.

This Definitive Arms DAKM AK 74, priced at $1000 (not including scope), has features of more expensive rifles. (Courtesy Atlantic Firearms)

The trend, as I see it, is focused on manufacturers catering to customers in the $1000 range. These are people who don’t have the resources for a semi-custom rifle but understand that they need to spend about $1000 to get the quality and features they want.

We’ll delve into this subject with three different experts—Chase Sisgold, Mike Owen and Jim Fuller. These guys build AKs for a living and are in a great position to assess the quality of AKs sold in the United States because they know the products from the most fundamental level — the shop floor.

Buying Tips from Chase Sisgold

To help us answer the question of what to look for in an AK, I sought the advice of Chase Sisgold, co-founder of Definitive Arms in St. Petersburg, Florida.

Chase builds custom AKs and has experienced success over the past few years. He’s developed a system allows your stock .223/5.56 AK variant to accept commonly found AR magazines and, has a “Last Round Bolt Hold Open” (LRBHO) feature. This means exactly what it describes–after the last round is fired, the bolt remains open, as with the AR-15 and other semi-auto rifles. (This tells the shooter in no uncertain terms that the magazine is empty).

Q:  There are a number of different AK-47 style rifles out there. What advice do you have for a first time buyer?

A: I would advise first-time buyers to consider why they are purchasing the firearm.

There are a variety of options when it comes to AKs. Purpose, caliber, and price point are going to be the biggest factors. Is this rifle for personal defense? Competition? Ranch duty? Collector value? Home protection for the family?

For a first time buyer, I would generally recommend a run-of-the-mill AK in 7.62x39mm. These are common and inexpensive. Magazines and ammunition are widely available and, most important, the rifles are extremely reliable and easy to operate and maintain.

Q:  Is there a particular model that you think has the best quality?

A: I find that the Russians still produce the best quality components from which to build an AK. Both for my shop and for personal use, I prefer to start with a Saiga or a VEPR or a parts kit.

However, with the availability of Russian AKs dwindling, I can say that having a quality AK built by a professional from a quality parts kit is an equally viable option.

Q: I see wide disparity of price between manufacturers. Why such great differences?

A: Simple. Not all AKs are created equal. Supply and demand also play a large role in the price of AKs. I often times make the comparison to 1911s. Some guys will spend $1,000, $2,000, even $4,000 on a premium 1911 but for some reason will draw the line at paying more than $1,000 for a good-quality AK.

There are plenty of AKs (and 1911s) that will run in the $500 to $600 range. However, if you want a premium AK (or 1911) built by a skilled gunsmith using excellent-quality components, you had better be prepared to pay for it. In my opinion, the best fighting/defensive rifles are AKs built by skilled guys who really know what they are doing. Most of the time, you get what you pay for.

 

Q:  What caliber should one choose, given that AKs are available in 7.62×39, 5.45×39, 5.56×45, .308, and 7.62x54R?

A: Here is a quick break down on calibers for the AK from an American shooter’s perspective:

>> 7.62x39mm is pretty common, affordable, hard hitting and has mild recoil. The magazines are all over the place and usually inexpensive to buy. They perform very well out of short barrels and make a great PDW (personal defense weapon) cartridge.

>> 5.45x39mm is fairly common, affordable and has a very flat trajectory along with light recoil. The magazines have gotten expensive but they are a very deadly cartridge that shoots well in the AK platform. It has great penetration and amazing results when hitting flesh.

(Left to right) 5.45×39, 7.62×39, 7.62×54R (Courtesy AKOU)

>> 5.56x45mm is very common and abundant. It is not terribly high priced and has a great track record as a fighting caliber. It’s accurate, deadly and has light recoil. There are a large assortment of styles to choose from. The 5.56 AK magazines are expensive and hard to find, but AR magazines are a dime a dozen and very easy to find for the guys out there running AR magazines in their AKs. In an emergency (natural disasters, etc.) the 5.56 cartridge will be the most commonly available cartridge to acquire via bartering, considering its standardized use with military and law enforcement agencies across the country.

>> .308/7.62x51mm is very common, accurate and can easily be used to hunt medium and large game. It also has a great track record as a battle rifle cartridge and is deadly at longer distances. The rounds are a little pricy but not terrible when buying surplus ammunition. Depending on your AK model, the magazines may be hard to come by or expensive. Luckily, we also produce a magwell system for VEPR rifles that utilizes .308 Pmags with the LRBHO feature. This upgrade simplifies the magazine equation while significantly improving the usability of the rifle.

>> 7.62x54R is fairly common in the surplus variety and a number of current production factory loadings are available. This cartridge is the oldest military cartridge still in service today. It can be purchased at very fair prices considering the cost of other calibers in terms of size and power. It is powerful and very deadly. Magazines for it may be more difficult to find. Depending on the load — surplus ammo versus current production factory ammo versus hand loads) — the accuracy will vary greatly out of an AK chambered in this cartridge.

Q:  Let’s talk about barrel length. What are the standard lengths and what are the practical differences?

A: Most AKs you will find in America are 16 inches long. Extended barrel lengths ranging from 19 to 23 inches are not uncommon. Krinkovs, custom AKs or other short barreled rifles (‘SBRs’) are under 16 inches.

An AK with shorter barrel, between 7 inches and 14.5 inches, can come in handy as a personal defense weapon or for operations in tightly confined spaces. Close-quarters combat or getting in and out of vehicles quickly comes to mind. Perhaps the operator simply wants something that will fit into a small bag when folded up. Concealment is a huge factor for personal defense weapons.

Standard-length rifles around 16 inches are going to make up the majority of AKs one will encounter in America. These might include home/property defensive rifles, competition rifles, or fighting rifles.

A 16-inch barrel is long enough to get good projectile velocity and deliver good stopping power down range with good accuracy. It is still fairly light and will maneuver well, allowing it to bridge the gap between all roles. It’s a do-all rifle. In short, the 16-inch barreled AK will suit the needs of most.

Q:  Are chrome-lined barrels more desirable?

A: In general, yes. Hammer-forged, chrome-lined barrels have been around for a long time. They are tough and very long lasting. Most people will be hard-pressed to shoot enough ammunition through one to wear it out.

Q:  What about buying used rifle?

A: AKs are one of those weapons that can be bought used with confidence. Any decently built AK will most likely outlive the next two generations. Of course, you will still want to inspect the weapon closely or have someone who is knowledgeable look it over for you. I wouldn’t recommend buying a weapon that looks like it was mistreated and may have a high round count on top of that.

Q: What are the differences between a milled or stamped receiver? Does it really matter?

A: Milled receivers can make a fine AK. Stamped receivers can also make a fine AK. I don’t favor one over the other. I will say that currently I own more stamped AKs than milled, but I believe that is due to cost and availability more than anything.

Q:  What about wood furniture versus plastic? Is this purely a function of aesthetics?

A: There is something beautiful about a classic all-steel firearm encased with well-finished wood. Some people like the look and feel of a wood-clad firearm. From a manufacturing perspective, plastic can be more economically produced.

Q:  I see a lot of people using a folding stock. What furniture is the most ergonomic and comfortable?

A: Comfort and ergonomics are really a personal choice. Some may base their choices solely on cosmetics as well. I personally prefer a full furniture set on my 16-inch barreled weapons. For Krinkovs or SBRs, I love the look and feel of the classic triangle folders, though they may not be the most ergonomic choice.

Q: You mentioned that AR’s are less accurate and AKs are more accurate than most people think. What kind of accuracy, say at 100 yards, can I expect from an AK-47 versus an AK-74?

A: Many shooters will say that their rack-grade AR is a sub-MOA (Minute of Angle) weapon, but this just isn’t the case. I think if most of these folks got their rifles out at 100-plus yards they would find that their beloved ARs do not, in fact, shoot half-inch groups like the sales guys told them.

On the flip side, you hear a lot of people say that the AK is not accurate, but many can consistently tag steel at 200, 300, 400 yards or more with one. Any rifle capable of tagging a man-sized target at 400 yards is more than combat-effective in terms of accuracy. Generally speaking, an AR will be more accurate than an AK, but not by a great margin. The AK is plenty accurate for its intended purpose.

Caliber is also a big factor. We put out 5.56 AKs that will shoot on par with most rack-grade ARs.

 

Q: If I want to customize a stock AK, are they as easy to work on as ARs?

A: ARs are definitely easier to work on. Almost everything for an AR can be done with simple hand tools. AKs do not have as many aftermarket parts offerings and are more difficult to mount optics to with repeatable results.

A lot of AK components will require gunsmithing for installation, not just hand tools. In this sense, the AR is definitely easier to customize. However, there is nothing quite like a well-built AK, and for that reason alone many will go through the effort or pay the money to have a custom AK built. There are also enough drop- in AK parts so that customizing an AK from home is not terribly difficult.

Q: What about the garage builds that you hear a lot about? Is that a good way to go?

A: Jim Fuller has an expression, and I agree with what he says: “Building an AK is easy, but building an AK properly is difficult.”

You can build them in your garage with friends and probably get them to shoot, but if want it to be built well and last a long time, you really need to build it right, and that can take some time.

We do an alarming number of repairs and reworks of very poorly built AKs from “build parties” and guys who’ve built it themselves from advice given to them on gun forums or on YouTube. Neither of these are a reliable source of anything AK-build related. Building AKs is fun, but gunsmithing should be taken very seriously.

Unless you really know what you’re doing, I’d avoid the “garage groups.”

 

Q: Given that the Russian guns such as the Saiga are harder to get nowadays because of the ban, what other variants do you recommend for an entry level rifle?

A: Given the current situation I would recommend guns that are built by a quality builder from older parts kits of forged, then machined components. The only downside is trying to source a quality barrel. Fortunately, US manufacturers are putting out fairly tough and accurate barrels these days.

Q: What kind of price points are we talking about?

A: If you want a reliable gun built for you, get a reputable builder and budget between $799 and $999. If you want an amazing AK that is reliable, accurate, smooth and well-tuned, I would budget between $999 and $1,999 depending on options. If you’re looking for just a range gun you can get a ‘plinker’ for about $500 to $600, and just roll the dice.

Q: Anything we missed?

A: The only difference between an AK and most other weapons is that in 200 years the AK will still work and be relevant as a fighting implement and tool for survival.

Buying Tips from Mike Owen

Our second interview concerning how to purchase an AK is with Mike Owen, founder of Meridian Ordnance LLC in Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Mike’s shop has a great reputation for building AKs and he’s one of the more articulate guys I’ve interviewed on this subject. Reading his comments will complement what Chase Sisgold had to say and will go a long way to help first-time buyers sort out the most frequently asked questions.

Q: With some Russian products now banned from import, what brands of mass-produced rifles do you recommend?

A: There are many variables here, with the biggest ones being the buyer’s budget and intended use.

Given the current situation, if I had to choose an out-of- the-box AK, I would suggest a Bulgarian Arsenal Inc. SLR107 (stamped) or SAM7 (milled) series. The only caveat is that for their price range I’ve always thought Arsenal Inc. should feature a superior finish than what they do. That said, having an AK refinished in a more durable option like Moly Resin or Cerakote is an easy fix, and I do many in just such a fashion.

Q: Are there any appreciable differences in quality between some of the more popular mass-produced rifles such as WASRs, Century Arms, Arsenal, etc?

A: Absolutely, yes. I could preach for days about some of the known issues with lower-end commercial AK offerings out there. Canted sight blocks, magazine wobble, poor fit/finish, improper heat treating, and even headspace issues have all been documented.

(Courtesy Rick Davis)

I’ll hit on this: For many of these budget buyers, having a “correct” or high-end AK isn’t the point, but the majority of the noted problems are performance or safety issues — not personal preference issues.

Factoring in neutered parts, commercial features and overall quality to price ratio is a budgetary matter. While there are many decent commercially made budget AK-based firearms like the WASR out there it is important for the first time buyer to remember that you get what you pay for. I often have customers bring in problematic rifles, where the cost of the corrections or repairs plus what they gave for the firearm would put them within the price range of a military pedigree or overall higher-quality AK.

Q: It seems that you can get a good deal from some of the larger stores that sell online. What are the pros and cons of buying a new rifle online?

A: The biggest pro to buying online is just as you noted: The good deals. Large retailers who market online have the buying power to get more product from the manufacturer or distributor at a lower cost and pass some of those savings on to the consumer.

The firearms industry simply does not consistently have the big margins and high mark-ups people often associate with it. In some cases, my dealer’s cost on a quantity of just one particular item can be higher than what large online retailers offer the same item for on sale.

I think most gun owners would agree the biggest disadvantage to online shopping is that you cannot physically inspect, handle, examine, or pine over the exact item you want to buy. With something as unique and often as personal as a firearm, many people are perfectly content to pay a few dollars more to see it in hand, or, in our case, have it built to order just for them.

Q: Can you recommend a specific model in the $600 price range for a first-time buyer who wants a brand new rifle?

A: If the buyer is not looking for a more “correct” rendition of an AK variant, at under $600, I’d suggest the Zastava produced O-PAP M70 rifle.

Now, the receiver, reinforced trunion, furniture, rivet pattern, gas block and a handful of other details are not identical to its military cousin the Yugoslavian M70B1, but for a commercial AK they hold up well to the typical usage which most shooters will put them through. I would give Palmetto State Armory AKM a tentative look as well.

Q: With some Russian rifles no longer imported, do any dealers you know sell other sporterized rifles that can be converted?

A: A few distributors actually may still have the Saiga 5.56mm NATO IZ114 and 5.45x39mm IZ240 rifles in stock. They are great candidates for conversions. We have a few in 5.45mm left ourselves.

Granted, they are on closeout due to the import ban and will not be restocked anytime soon. That said, any AK that is lacking in some respect can be a good candidate for a conversion, depending on your goals. It could be something as minor as needing a gas block with a bayonet lug to having the barrel threaded or, as major as an out-of-the-box Saiga needing a full conversion.

I always offer a lot of guidance to customers seeking to improve an AK in these respects. Funny thing, but the model that comes to my mind in regards to converting a truly sporterized rifle like the Saiga series into something more practical is the old Norinco Hunter. Big transformations possible there.

Q: What about in the $700 to $1,000 range?

A: In this price range there’s the Arsenal SLR107-21 and -31 right at the top end, cost-wise. I wish the Russian SGL series were still an option here. But the SLR series are solid rifles with the right feature set and very few shortcomings.

What many people are surprised to learn is that even with the BATFE (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives) barrel ban, you can still often get a matching-numbers, military-parts kit built on a fully heat-treated receiver in this price range.

The Russian Saiga IZ132 rifle conversions can also be done professionally for under $1,000 by some builders such as ourselves, but we can all thank (President Obama’s) EO 13662 for effectively cutting off that option. U.S.-made variants will quickly fill the gap so it seems.

Q: If you can’t afford a $1,000+ Arsenal, are you better off buying a good-quality used rifle?

A: Get the best you can afford for your purpose, be it new or used.

If your budget is $500 to $600 and your purpose is plinking at the local range, check out that Zastava N-PAP or a Romanian WASR, provided you can look it over for those problem indicators first before buying, which is the big boon of buying in person versus online.

If your budget is $900+, consider an Arsenal Inc. model, Russian VEPR or custom kit build from a reputable AK builder.

If you take your time and hound the gun boards, auction sites and listing services, there are still some deals to be had. Just be careful that you know what to look for and do your homework first before buying. If you find yourself looking at a kit build, especially of unknown provenance, correctly check the head spacing before buying and certainly before shooting. A $70 set of headspace gauges beats a $700 emergency room visit, or worse.

Q: Some manufacturers, such as Century, are advertising AKs that are made exclusively of all USA-made parts. Are these rifles of good quality?

A: The U.S.-made AK is slowly coming to fruition, and there are a number of companies pushing these models to market. Some say Century is slowly improving its QC (quality control) reputation and their C39v2 rifle is making some gains.

I’d also suggest tracking how the Palmetto State Armory AKM stacks up this year. I cannot speak definitively on any one U.S. made offering being better than all the others right now.

Q: We’ve talked at length about the purchase of a new AK. What about buying a used rifle?

A: Most people who own a quality AK know it, so finding that great used AK deal can take some time.

You will likely weed through hundreds of jacked up and overpriced offerings for every fair deal you see, and great deals are even scarcer.

Good deals on Russian VEPR rifles are hard to pass up when encountered, but I personally believe the biggest “sleeper” AK deals on the market right now lie in the Clinton-era Assault Weapons Ban firearms imported from ’94-’04, although they are drying up. Examples would be rifles such as the Chinese MAK90, NHM91, Romanian SAR series, or Egyptian MISR or MAADI for instance, often seen with thumbhole stocks and neutered parts.

No, these are not going to be WASR-priced, by comparison, but often you can snag one for a fair price and sit on it while gathering funds to fully de-ban the rifle appropriately. In the end you’ll have something unique and more collectible, as well as a good shooter, typically.

A properly de-banned Romanian SAR1 rifle (for example) will appreciate in value exponentially faster than even the best made WASR on the market, in addition to being of higher quality and a closer representation of an AKM.

Q: You’ve mentioned to me that there are QC issues with WASRs, especially in the area of proper heat treatment, which in the long term can result in malfunctions. Those rifles always seem to be the least expensive. Are they a serious option for first time buyers?

A: For the budget buyer, yes. The WASR has always been an option simply because of price, and that price makes it popular.

Their known issues have given them a bad reputation, one that’s not entirely misplaced. I have seen a handful of egged axis pin holes and stress fractures that can be attributed to improper heat treating in the series. If you are a serious first time AK buyer, don’t fall to impulse, understand your own needs and expectations, and then train-up a bit before going with any given AK.

Q: What caliber do you recommend for the first time buyer who is primarily a “plinker” and maybe will use the rifle for home self-defense?

A: 7.62×39 mm Russian M43 (ammunition). It’s obtainable, well-proven and comes in many loads from many manufactures. From bulk Wolf WPA Polyformance ammo to Hornady, there are lots of great options for every need, from the range to defense.

It’s an AK. Don’t over-think what you’re feeding it. I know guys who carry over experiences with $3k+ bench rest rifles and try to apply that same thinking to an AK platform. It’s just misplaced, like a GE jet turbine in a (WW2-era) T34 tank.

5.45×39 mm is a fine light load as well, and, contrary to what some people think, the Executive Order banning Russian 7n6 5.45×39 ammo Russian did not kill 5.45, as it is far from dead. It’ll still be imported and made domestically, but not in the quantities or the selection of 7.62×39 mm ammo.

5.56 NATO is a distant third choice. The Romanian SAR3 and its brief history with hammer geometry issues gave the .223/5.56 AK in America a bad rap early on, but those days were long ago and few people even know about it today. New offerings in 5.56 mm, such as those from Arsenal, are pretty squared-away rifles. My personal complaint with any 5.56 mm AK is simply that the diversity of 5.56 mm AK magazines and their availability/cost will keep it from being a major contender on par with 7.62×39 mm.

From the East German Weiger to the .223 Saiga, there is a big selection of different original and aftermarket mags, and not all of them are interchangeable, of course. The Definitive Arms AR mag adapter conversions seek to solve that problem, and do so very inventively and surprisingly well.

Q: What kind of finish do you recommend for an AK? Can you talk about blued, versus powder coat, versus  Cerakote, etc. How do they wear? Which is better at protecting the metal?

A: There’s a slew of finishes on the market now to augment the traditional stuff we’ve seen for decades, such as hot bluing and zinc or manganese phosphate Parkerizing.

Cerakote is of course a big name in the newer coatings and quite popular for good reason. I mention Cerakote here because they have done a fine job testing a number of these old and new finishes side by side.

From the standpoint of someone who does a lot of refinishing, including Cerakote H-series work, I personally prefer John Norrell’s Moly Resin for an AK. It is more forgiving and simpler to apply, as far as the applicator is involved, so I can process jobs more efficiently. But more important, it is a closer match to the Russian “squid ink” acrylics and similar finishes used on many AK rifles, so it makes a good historical match for those who want a more correct AK or wish to only refinish certain parts and preserve the rest.

The flat black option of Moly Resin is also a good match to manganese phosphate Parkerizing. One downside is that Moly Resin does not come in the vast array of colors that Cerakote H-series comes in. Moly Resin is a very durable finish and in my opinion the only one on the market that holds up on par with a product like Cerakote H-series. The only way to entirely remove either of these finishes is with abrasion blasting.

Bluing is a decorative finish and does nothing to protect steel, but is often the right historical choice.

Likewise, Parkerizing is simply a porous finish so once any oils in it have bled out over time (accelerated by heat or moisture) it will do nothing to inhibit rust or corrosion.

Powder coating is generally not an option for firearms, as it will not hold up to the really tough solvents and chemical abuse over time.

Of the many other spray-on air-cure or oven-cure finishes out there, there are many decent ones such as Duracoat or KG Gun Kote that are available for the DIY crowd and professionals alike. The results of using these products will be entirely in your preparation, just like anything else, but some are a bit better than others.

Q: What are the pros and cons of having a gunsmith build you a rifle from a kit from scratch? What’s the price range?  

A: Well, you get exactly what you need, not an off-the-shelf model you have to modify later at greater cost or settle with as-is.

Gunsmiths and professional builders such as ourselves assemble your rifle to-order, often based on a given set of specifications to suit your needs, wants or mission.

Many military pedigree kits carry with them history, character and a unique appeal for those seeking hard to find variants.

Other buyers want the satisfaction which comes with knowing a specific kit is their own basis for a higher quality AK, be it a museum-worthy reproduction or practical, modernized Kalashnikov system they may depend upon with their life.

The downside is it takes time to build each individual firearm for its owner, to source parts or dig up that one small detail that brings the whole project together, so it’s not a pay and go option.

Our basic AKM kit building services start in the $260 ballpark and go from there. Just to get an idea of average cost, there are still many great AK parts kits on the market today in the $200-$500 price range.

We simply have had the best results, are most impressed and most satisfied with Moly Resin and Cerakote for our needs and AKs specifically.

Buying Tips from Jim Fuller

Jim Fuller, founder of Rifle Dynamics, an AK custom shop, also had some tips for finding the right rifle.

Q: For the first time buyer on a budget, what are your suggestions?

A: The AK market, like all other guns, is tiered. Our guns are on the higher end. The lower-end guns have a place for the beginner, particularly if they are a casual shooter who will never put enough strain on the gun to cause a failure.

What it comes down to is what the gun is going to be used for. If you’re going to buy something that your life depends on that’s one thing. Where the WASRs and other less-expensive guns run into problems is when you run 500 to 1,000 rounds a day through them, for example, in a training situation. The Arsenals are built to handle that kind of stuff. Most of the other guns are not Mil-spec and not made for that. If you’re only shooting a few hundred rounds a year, you’ll be fine with a less-expensive gun.

With the expansion of the AK market in the U.S., there are a number of choices in all categories. Of course, you’ll want to do your research. I have a number of videos on this subject that are available free on our Rifle Dynamics You Tube Channel, or my armorers DVD from Panteao Productions.

One suggestion I can make is that you compare multiple copies of rifles at a shop. Yes, it will cost more to buy this way, but you will get a better gun when you can see and compare them in person.

Q: Do you have any recommendations for mid-range buyers?

A: The midrange guns are not well served in the U.S. AK market. Arsenal in my opinion is the best off-the-shelf gun you can get in the $1,000 range. The VEPR is another quality gun, but there is little else in this area. In my opinion, the Bulgarian factory guns are the best of the current imports.

I’ve also had a look at the new DDI (Destructive Devices Industries) guns. I liked the model with the milled receiver. They also have a stamped-receiver version that I think will be competing with the Arsenal build in the future. I spoke to the owners at SHOT and they are definitely making an effort to build good guns.

Q: Do you have any other options, such as converting a sporterized rifle?

A: OK. Another option, while not as sexy, is the (sporterized) Chinese Mak 90. It can be had in the $600-$800 range.

Q: How did you respond to the ban on Russian imports?

A: When some Russian guns were banned from import a while back, we pushed forward on our U.S. AK plans, and this year that will come to fruit. We have been through several revisions on our bolt, carrier and trunion, and they are just about there. We have most other parts ready and will be making some needed changes in design on some of the standard parts that will offer to the U.S. AK market things that have never been possible with the AK before. All the parts made are being made on my property.

Q: What are the challenges inherent to building a quality AK in this country?

A: The biggest issues facing the professional AK builder these days is parts that are all over the place, spec-wise. The guys that know what they are doing spend a lot of time dealing with this to get the best-fitting gun possible. The ones who don’t know, well, they just assemble them.

 

Q: How do you see things changing?

A: With our U.S. parts, that will make history as things will be standardized, making them much easier to assemble with less hand-fitting needed for a quality gun. The tolerances will still be loose enough to guarantee the legendary reliability but tight enough to increase accuracy.

In our eight years in business we have worked diligently to expand the AK industry, and now we are seeing benefits from growing that market.

For example, a few years ago we didn’t have much of a choice for U.S. AK barrels, but now we are working with some of the best match-barrel manufacturers in the business and are actually in the process of testing U.S. made Cold Hammer Forged barrels.

We’re trying to get away from using surplus parts. They are not going to be around forever. Right now there are a lot of good Polish parts available. After they became a NATO country, they de-milled all of their old 7.62×39 mm AKs. That’s the only reason why people are able to build the Polish guns now. When those dry up, there won’t be any more decent parts.

Q: So right now your guns are built from Polish parts?

A: Yes, we buy the parts that are being demilled from their arsenal, not the used stuff. We’re not converting rifles from Saiga or others. We’ll do that for customers, but not to build our own line.

Q: How far away are you from building all USA-made guns?

A: About six months.

Q: I understand you are working on a line of rifles that will be priced less than your premium line. What’s the status on those?

A: We’re working on a standard AKM and AK-74. We’re looking at producing rifles that will be in the same price range as Arsenal. We may offer both wood and polymer stocks. It depends on the supply of good-quality wood furniture.

Q: It seems like your front-end design, the Bolton Block, has become very popular in the AK community. Can you talk about that?

A: We started doing that 2005. Not too many people paid attention to it until Travis Haley bought one about four or five years ago. It’s since become very popular.

Q: Can you talk about the genesis of the product?

A: The (Bolton) block was originally my idea. At the time I didn’t have the money to produce it, so I went to a friend of mine, Lenny Bolton of Venom Tactical, who produces these kinds of products. We put that together, and since it’s become popular people have purchased the part to emulate the look.

The problem is we do so much more on the inside of the gun to complement the block replacement. We change the size of the gas porting. We change the size of the piston. We do all kinds of stuff to balance that system out. It will work with or without a suppressor.

Q: I understand the front end work you do takes about a pound off the rifle?

A: Yes, you’re changing two blocks into one and you’re taking about two inches of the barrel off. It comes to nearly a pound off the gun. It also moves the center of gravity on the gun back about four inches. This is why it feels so much better to people when they shoot it.  It’s about 10 percent of the weight. There’s no “over swing” and no extra weight. It comes in very handy for fast shooting.

Q: This is definitely significant for an AK, especially if you’re shooting offhand.

A: Yes, with a loaded magazine it’s about only half a pound more than an AR. I think that’s one of the reasons why our guns are so popular.

This brings me to an important point. Everyone in our shop are shooters. We build guns for shooters. That sets us apart from everyone else. The AK has a bright future in the U.S. and we are proud to be in the forefront of that expansion.

What exactly is an AK-47?

The terms “AK-47” or “Kalashnikov” are often used loosely, so clarification is in order.

The first AK-47 model was introduced into active service by the Soviets in 1948. For purists, this first iteration is the “true” AK-47. However, the moniker “AK-47” has come to include Kalashnikov offspring — the AKS and the AKM/AKMS, plus the many subsequent variants from nations such as China, Romania, Bulgaria, North Korea, Hungary, Poland, Iraq and the former Yugoslavia.

The AK-47 is also grouped together with the derivatives of it such as the RPK, a light machine gun (imported into this country in civilian form as the VEPR) and the AK-74, which uses a smaller cartridge than the AK-47 (5.45x39mm versus 7.62x39mm). (The AK ‘operating system’ is so robust that some manufacturers produce shotguns in various calibers but that particular variant will not be covered in this book).

In addition to looking very similar to each other, the classic AK-47 and its progeny all feature selective fire. This means that the rifle is capable of semi- and full-automatic fire, as well as burst fire, which usually allows two or three rounds to be fired with a single trigger pull. Full automatic refers to the ability of a gun to fire continuously until the magazine is emptied or the trigger is released.
The AK rifles sold to civilians in this country do not have the select-fire feature that allows for the “full auto” or burst-fire options. One could argue that in this respect, they are not true AK-47s.

Why Buy an AK-47?

For many years the Kalashnikov was the “enemy’s gun” and shunned by red-blooded Americans. Ironically, when the AK-47 originally surfaced, the American military dismissed it as cheap and ineffective.

Boy, were they ever wrong.

As CJ Chivers, the New York Times columnist and author of the “The Gun” wrote, “the Kalashnikov-carrying guerrilla, a common man with portable and easy-to-use automatic arms, was now in the field by the tens of thousands, and these men were outgunning American troops.” One of the reasons why Kalashnikov-carrying troops had the edge over US forces was because of the rifle’s legendary reliability. A well maintained AK (or even a not so well maintained one) almost never fails. The rifle’s parts are hefty but loose enough to power through sand or grit. You can punish an AK-47 in oh-so-many ways such as burying it in the mud or immersing it in water and it will still operate.

This video, by Larry Vickers, a retired Special Forces veteran and respected firearms trainer, does a fine job of illustrating how an AK-47 functions.

The upshot: you may not be outfitting a guerrilla band but if you need a dependable rifle, you can be certain that it will fire when you pull the trigger.

Another advantage: The standard AK-47 round, which is 7.62 x 39mm, packs a wallop.

If the 7.62 chambering is not to your liking you can purchase it in other calibers with less recoil. Ammo is readily available and is relatively inexpensive compared to other rifles so you’re not going to go broke practicing.

Finally, cleaning and maintenance of the AK-47 is uncomplicated. You can field strip it in under a minute.

Prices begin at around $600 and go up to $2000+.

What accounts for this wide spectrum?

For more expensive AKs you’re paying for higher quality parts, better fit and finish, premium coatings and the labor that comes with superior workmanship. It’s really a matter of getting what you pay for. The more expensive the rifle the most likely it will be more dependable and durable.

There are disadvantages with an AK-style rifle compared to the AR-15.

The AK-47 is heavier by over a pound. If you are going to carry your rifle around all day or shoot offhand a great deal, this is not inconsequential.

Another important issue: The ergonomics on the Kalashnikov platform are clearly not as good as the AR-15. They take some getting used to. If you’re planning on purchasing an AK-47 and have never fired one, you owe it to yourself to check one out just to see how it feels.

If you’re interested in customizing your AK, third party accessories are available but often finding parts that fit can be challenging. Unlike the AR15, which is generally manufactured to Mil-Spec requirements, the AK has no such universal standard.

Essentially all AK-47 variants are built to slightly different specs. That means adding optics, handguards and other third party parts can be a hassle because it’s hard to ascertain that the new items will fit and work correctly.

 

AK Provenance

Even if you’ve never shouldered a rifle in your life, you already know that the AK-47 is the most iconic firearm in the world. For better or worse, it’s hard to turn on the TV news or read an online report without seeing one displayed.

Why is this rifle so popular?

They are relatively inexpensive, easy to maintain and incredibly dependable.

They are also ubiquitous. Since its introduction in 1948, there have been reportedly upwards of 100 million manufactured in more than a dozen of countries in a multitude of variants.

As of 2014, it’s no longer possible to import complete AK-47 kits into this country. The AKs sold in the U.S. are assembled by gunsmiths or hobbyists from a combination of imported and domestic parts. Components are gleaned from rifles made in Serbia, Bulgaria, Poland, Romania, Hungary and other countries. The parts are often modified to comply with U.S. laws.

 

AKs made in the United States

Although most AKs are assembled from imported parts, all AKs sold as new in this country are assembled in the U.S. in order to comply with U.S. laws. There is an exception to this rule when it comes to so-called sporterized rifles. These are AKs configured as hunting rifles, though most of these models end up being converted into the traditional looking, military-style AK-47s.

There are some manufacturers that tout “Made in the USA.” This means that the manufacture of parts and their assembly are all done in America.

This is a very new trend that began in earnest after the 2014 ban on most Russian imports. Given this environment, there’s now an economic incentive to produce a rifle made entirely from U.S.-manufactured parts. Some manufacturers, such as DDI (Destructive Devices Industries), Century Arms and Palmetto State Armory, are already using this as a marketing strategy to sell products.

With the current demand for AK-style rifles, new companies are building manufacturing facilities in this country. RWC, the erstwhile sole importer of the Kalashnikov rifle from Russia, has recently established “Kalashnikov USA.” RWC has licensed the name only–not the intellectual property and is now building US-made AKs.

Some of the higher end custom shops such as Rifle Dynamics, based Las Vegas, also are intent on building an all-U.S.-made AK-47. The company plans to manufacture all the internal parts for their rifles in-house.

 

Complying with the Law

When you start your buying journey, the term “992r Compliance” will rear its ugly head.

This refers to Title 18 Chapter 44 Section 922(r) Of the United States Code. Essentially it restricts semiautomatic rifles and shotguns to no more than 10 imported parts from a list of 20. For the buyer it may seem like an odd bureaucratic convention, which it is, but it’s a good idea as a consumer to have a basic understanding of the provenance of your rifle’s parts.

I am not an attorney but its common sense that if you plan to customize your rifle you’ll want remain compliant with the law.

 

Converting a “Sporterized” Rifle

It’s possible to buy “sporterized” — or civilian-style hunting models — of AKs, sans pistol grips.

A mechanically inclined person can convert a sporterized rifle into a traditional-looking AK, but for a neophyte, it is best if a gunsmith assists with the conversion process.

Why buy a rifle if it needs to be converted?

Buying a high-quality, sporterized rifle will assure you of getting a foreign-made receiver, barrel, trunion and other essential parts. With better-quality parts, you’re going to have a better gun from the get-go. Naturally your converted rifle must be 922r compliant.

If you’re serious about converting an AK, there are numerous videos that can show you how. Note that it’s more than just swapping out a few parts.

With most AKs you’ll have to move the trigger group, and that requires a skill set that the average person doesn’t have. This article from Dinzag Arms provides a good overview on what it will take in terms of parts and labor to convert a sporterized rifle.

 

Available Calibers

The original AK-47 chambering was 7.62x39mm. Other calibers include .308 WIN, .35 REM, .222 REM, .223 REM, 7.62x54R, 5.45x39mm (AK 74), 9 mm, 9x39mm sometimes called 9×39 GROM, 6.5 Grendel and even .22 rimfire. Generally, AK ammo is imported but readily available.

AK Nomenclature and Accessories

Suffice it to say, it’s essential that you know your rifle from the inside out.

Part of your job as owner of the rifle is to field-strip (disassemble) it regularly for cleaning and lubrication. In doing so you’ll get to be on intimate terms with your dust cover, bolt carrier, gas tube and other features.

The good folks at UltiMAK have provided us with a breakdown of all the major parts of an AK-47 rifle. The only part they didn’t label was the muzzle brake: it’s just forward of the front sight block.

The AK is easy to field strip and maintain. (Courtesy UltiMAK)

 

Milled versus Stamped Receivers

AKs are manufactured with two distinct types of receivers—milled and stamped.

Milled receivers are created out of solid chunks of steel.  All the internal guide rails, magazine well and latch surfaces, bolt locking surfaces, bolt carrier stop and the barrel and buttstock receiving sockets are cut from a single piece of metal.

As the name implies, stamped receivers are stamped from a sheet of steel and shaped in a series of bending processes that make them more cost-effective to produce.

The original AK-47, called a Type 1, was stamped but this process was discontinued, as the stamping and assembly technology at the time had unacceptably high rejection rates. As a result, the Soviet manufacturers went to milled receivers. The milled version was solid, but machining is a labor-intensive and, more expensive process. Hence, this line was terminated as well.

The Soviets eventually perfected the manufacturing methodology for stamped receivers (which are lighter than the milled versions) and are still produced today.

The differences between milled and stamped receivers are elucidated on the UltiMAK website.

Whether to purchase a milled or a stamped receiver will be one of the prospective buyer’s major decisions. From a structural point of view, there’s no question that the milled receivers are stronger and do not flex. However, milled receivers are generally more expensive.

Aesthetically, milled receivers are quite pleasing to the eye, and in this regard, most people would consider them superior.

From a purely practical point of view, they may not be your first choice. Milled receivers are inherently more robust, but they are not necessarily “better.”

While prettier, as alluded to above, they also are heavier than the stamped models. If you plan to do a lot of shooting offhand or lugging the rifle around for extended periods of time, heavy is not optimal. In addition to the weight factor, they also cannot use the more commonly available AKM-type aftermarket furniture.

If you’re just going to shoot off the bench, then it doesn’t matter.

As far as which type of receiver can take more punishment, the milled models purportedly last longer than the stamped versions. According to Ron Cheney, Director at Battlefield Vegas, a Las Vegas shooting range which features fully auto AKs, stamped receivers of every brand usually suffer a “catastrophic failure” (cracked trunion) at 80,000-100,000 rounds.

In Cheney’s experience none of the stamped receivers, regardless of price or provenance, fare much better than others as far as longevity. His facility features rifles from different manufacturers including Saiga, Arsenal, Norinco, WASR and others of Hungarian, Polish and Serbian origin. He had particular praise for the much maligned WASR, which he said held up just as well as the higher priced AKs. Cheney said that none of the rifles with milled receivers (to date) has failed due to a cracked trunnion.

What does this mean for the average person?

Probably, not much. First off, very few people will shoot an astronomical number of rounds through a rifle, much less in a fully automatic mode. Cheney reckons that the average stamped AK that is shot semi-auto should last even longer than 100,000 rounds. Unless you’re planning to open up a rifle range, either a stamped or a milled receiver will serve you well.

Furniture

Don’t confuse AK furniture with love seats or rocking chairs. The term simply refers to the exterior parts (with the exception of the barrel and receiver) that come with the rifle. These include the buttstock, pistol grip and hand guards.

The traditional AKs have wood furniture whereas the modern rifles often utilize polymer. Some of the newer designs from companies such as Krebs Custom offer “KeyMod” handguard/rail systems made from aircraft aluminum. KeyMod allows for direct attachment of accessories such as flashlight mounts, laser modules, etc.

Even with aircraft aluminum handguard designs, AKs equipped with polymer furniture aren’t necessarily cheap or cheesy. There are also several advantages with polymer which usually weighs and costs less than aluminum.

There are, of course, different grades of polymer furniture. Arsenal, a well-respected Las Vegas manufacturer of AKs, uses polymer or “synthetic” furniture of high quality. “Plastic” furniture comes in a variety of colors or even in camo. Many people prefer polymer to wood for aesthetic and ergonomic reasons.

Fixed buttstocks are available in the old style “Combloc” (13 inch) length or in the longer NATO version that adds an additional 1.25 inches. If you’re considering the purchase of a fixed-stock rifle (either with wood or polymer furniture) and aren’t familiar with them it’s advisable to shoot one before you buy.

Side rails

On all but the least expensive rifles you’ll find a mount on the left side of the receiver called a “side rail” or a side accessory rail.

The innovation came about in 1953 and was the first quick-detach (QD) optic mounting system.

Since 1991, the side rail has been standard for all rifles made in Russia, Bulgaria and Romania, according to Scot Hoskisson, founder of the optics mount company, RS Regulate.

The side rail allows shooters to add or remove optics such as red dot sights or other types of “glass” from the rifle. Companies such as UltiMAK, Krebs Custom and others also produce a variety of rail systems that can be installed over the top of dust cover but do not utilize the side rail.

I had never intended to write an AK-47 buyer’s guide. Plans, however, are always subject to change. As I shopped around for an AK, I became acutely aware of how different an animal it was from other rifles. Finding good advice on this iconic weapon was hard to come by, which made the task of choosing the right one downright confusing.

Whether I was inspecting rifles at a neighborhood dealer or an online auction site, it occurred to me that choosing an AK is a bit like walking through a house of mirrors. Regardless of price, to the untrained eye, they all looked the same.

What I came to discover was that trying to assess the merchandise superficially was an exercise in futility. I found out that you need to know what’s under the hood. Unless you’re intimately familiar with the individual manufacturer and the provenance of the parts, you don’t know what you’re getting.

Even Amazon.com didn’t help my research at all. There were some books on AKs listed, but they were either highly technical or devoted to the history of the rifle. There was no real AK-47 buyer’s guide out there. The forums were too esoteric and while there were a few websites with good data, they were few and far between.

A comprehensive AK buyer’s guide simply didn’t exist, so I figured I’d write one.

As a discerning buyer, I needed to understand some basics. These are critical for an AK-47 buyer’s guide:

• The differences between a $600, $1200 and a $2000 rifle.
• Which AK manufacturers offer the best bang for the buck.
• Whether to buy online or from a local dealer.
• Whether to buy new or used.
• What type of optic to buy and how to mount it.

The purpose of this little book is to provide buyers with answers to these queries and much more. In short, my objective is to de-mystify the process of purchasing an AK.

In addition to the basic questions that revolve around choosing the right gun, How to Buy an AK-47 also offers ideas on customizing your AK with aftermarket parts such as stocks, folders, grips, rails, etc. Some of these suggestions come from my own product reviews but most advice is garnered from professional gunsmiths and trainers—people who design, build and operate Kalashnikov-style rifles for a living.

I sincerely hope that my efforts help you find the rifle you want and that you spend many safe hours at the range or in the field, enjoying it.

Feel free to email any comments to me at ontargethawaii@gmail.com

Acknowledgements

There many people whose help and assistance I’d like to recognize.

Topping the list is my publisher at the Hawaii Reporter, Malia Zimmerman, and technical editor, R.N. Price. Kudos to longtime Hawaii newspaperman Mark Coleman, who copy-edited the book.

I’d also like to thank the Kalashnikov brain trust who helped immensely gathering the facts. These include Graham Baates, Denny Butts, Lyle Keeney, Marc Krebs, Jim Fuller, Chase Sisgold, Rob Ski, Tim Yan, Tim Harmsen, Justin McMillion, Mike Owen, Larry Vickers, Brian Takaba and Luke Williams. I also want to thank Jorge Amselle, Rick Davis, Michael N. Sutton, Fred Stecher, Mrgunsngear, Heather Edlander Walker, Kevin Reichard, Tim Parks and the guys at Echo Nine Three and the Uzibutton who kindly provided photos and great advice. Special thanks to Phil White, James Reeves and Brian Conrad for their assistance in making this book possible.

Mahalo nui loa to all of you.

 

Who should read this book?

How to buy an AK-47 provides a wealth of information and collected wisdom from the top builders, gunsmiths and experts. Whether you’re an experienced shooter or a complete neophyte, this book will be helpful to anyone wanting to learn more about AKs.