Online AK Forums

Although there’s no one “Kalashnikov AK-47 Central” website, there are a number of excellent online resources to find reviews of guns, gear and comradeship with fellow travelers.

A great way to keep on top of new innovations or learn about existing “stuff” in great depth is by joining either The AK Files Forums or the AK Forum.net. Or both. Like any forum they have discussion groups on various variants, ammo, optics and other gear. If you want to get insights on your particular brand of rifle, this is the place to go. If you want to delve into esoterica about milled receivers, reloading, slant brakes or RPKs, hanging out at these forums will certainly educate you.

 

Bloggers who regularly cover the AK Space

On Facebook the AK Operators Union, Local 47-74 otherwise known as “AKOU” is all AK, all the time. It was founded by Rob Ski who produces product reviews, videos, training exercises, thoughtful commentary and rants on everything AK. He’s famous for dropping rifles and other gear until they literally break. Unlike many so-called “Operators” he was actually trained with an AK as part of his military service in Poland. Many of his FB members are from Eastern Europe including Russia, Poland, and Serbia. Rob acts as a bridge between the East and West. In addition to his commentary, he runs an online store which sells gear that he has personally vetted. He also has Website, a Twitter feed and a YouTube Channel.

Tim Harmsen, aka “Mac”, is the host of the Military Arms Channel, Full30 and Military Arms Channel Facebook page. Affable and extremely knowledgeable, he covers the gamut when it comes to firearms but has a special place in his heart for the AK platform. He’s also an entrepreneur who sells a variety of first class firearms at his Copper Custom store which is both an online and bricks and mortar affair.

AK47ChatterBox.COM is actually a Facebook page run by Mike Vican. Mike has a sort of 30,000 foot view of the AK space and he republishes reviews from AKOU, Mrgunsngear and other Internet sources. His page is also strictly AK and just perusing it will give you a great feel for what’s out there in the way of rifles and accessories.

Mrgunsngear is also popular Internet gun guru who has a strong affinity for the AK. A graduate of the Massachusetts Criminal Justice Training Center, Mike has done stints in the USAF as well as the Army. He’s not connected to any kind of business venture that conflicts with his video blogging. If he finds flaws in a product he’s reviewing, he’ll tell you without worrying about offending the manufacturer. We respect him greatly for that. He has produced over 600 videos to date.

Larry Vickers a highly decorated Special Ops veteran, offers classes around the country under the aegis of his company, Vickers Tactical. Considered the dean of tactical training, he’s also a big fan of the AK platform. A firearms historian and gunsmith his video, Inside the AK 74, has received over a 1.2 million visitors on YouTube and counting.

Graham Baates, a contributor to this book, owes his respect of the AK platform to his combat experiences in Iraq and Afghanistan. After a decade of specializing in small arms and Eastern European studies for the US Army, Graham currently works as a consultant and has a popular YouTube channel with a number videos on the AK platform as well as other subjects.

Informational Websites

There aren’t too many of these. A company called Ultimak, which designs AK rails, has a terrific User Resources page with background info on electronic sights, FAQs and basic instructions on removing and replacing an AK stock. Cheaper than Dirt, the online store, has a blog style Buyer’s Guide to the AK Family of Rifles that’s quite good, albeit dated. Likewise, AR15.com has a comprehensive AK Buyers Guide with a gallery that illustrates a number of variants.

Where to Buy Guns and Accessories

Naturally every vendor of AK “stuff” has a Facebook page and a website. I prefer the FB pages simply because they are updated regularly.

Here are some places to go where you’ll get quality products:

>>AK Builder.com is a one stop shop for the hobbyist. You can purchase parts, parts kits and all manner of tools.

>>Apex Gun Parts sells AK kits and a plethora of parts.

>>Atlantic Firearms is the largest volume seller of AK rifles in the nation. They have

>>Aim Surplus has a nice selection of AKs–both foreign and domestic.

>>Brownells is a good place to purchase parts, tools, videos and even books at reasonable prices. They also have an excellent tech support lineup that can be extremely helpful.

>>Carolina Shooters Supply has a wide variety of AK rails, handguards and the like.

>>Circle 10 AK sells exclusively AK parts such as muzzle brakes and handguards as well as rifles.

>>CNC Warrior, Bonesteel Arms and StormWerkz all sell adapters that allow you to place AR style stocks on AKs.

>>Copper Custom, owned by Internet celeb Tim Harmsen sells high quality AKs, among other guns.

>>Definitive Arms builds a variety of semi-custom AKs that are highly regarded.

>>Echo Nine Three sells slings, sling adapters, furniture and other AK items. They have really nice art on their FB page.

>>Krebs Custom builds high end semi-custom AK rifles and a number of parts designed in house such as KeyMod rails, gun sights, and safety selectors.

>>K-VAR.com sells a plethora of imported and domestic AK parts. It distributes Arsenal rifles and has a very knowledgeable sales staff.

>>Magpul, a rather large name in the AR 15 space, also sells AK-centric parts such as magazines, stocks, handguards and other furniture.

>>Midwest Industries manufactures a variety of good quality AK parts at reasonable prices.

>>Red Star Arms has a number of specialty parts such as high quality triggers, disconnector springs, sights and retainers.

>>Rifle Dynamics is well known for their top flight semi-custom guns and manufactures their own proprietary parts such as an M4 adapter and a custom rear sight. They also offer build-your-own AK classes at their Las Vegas shop. I’ve heard great things about the classes, which usually fill up way ahead of time.

>>RS Regulate sells state-of-the-art AK optics mounts that will fit most variants.

>>R&R Targets specializes in custom parts for Saiga Shotguns and AKs. This includes a souped-up Tapco G2 trigger, an AK to AR style stock adapter, a custom safety, handguards and other items.

>>SGM Tactical has a variety of items specifically for the VEPR. This includes rails, stocks, handguards and muzzle brakes.

>>Ultimak sells lightweight rails, mounting systems and optics that fit just about every AK variant.

>>Tapco, primarily a manufacturer of AR gear, also sells AK parts such as magazines, triggers and grips.

>>Vltor sells mostly AR parts but has a few high end AK items such as a stock adapter.

Online Sales Sites

>>Gunbroker.com is the biggest and baddest auction site of all. They sell both guns and gun parts.

>>Armslist.com has guns for sale by owners and dealers at a fixed price. They divvy up their site state by state.

>>Gunsamerica.com also has a wide variety of firearms for sale by owners and dealers.

>>Auctionarms.com is a site where my colleagues and I have purchased a number of items through the years with good experiences.

Advanced Training

If you want to get proficient on your rifle a good step to take, says Graham Baates a contributor to this book, is to take an advanced carbine course. These are available at facilities such as Front Sight in Nevada, Thunder Ranch in Oregon, and Bill Rogers Shooting School in Georgia. There are a host of lesser known schools that are perfectly suitable.

The caveat is that if you’re interested in a particular school, first ascertain if there’s an instructor at the school who is familiar with the AK platform before you plunk down your fee. Advanced students might consider courses from the AK Operators Union, Vickers Tactical or Haley Strategic. There are undoubtedly other good courses out there for AK-centric individuals.

 

AK Books

THE GUN is a Pulitzer Prize winning book by NY Times reporter and former marine, CJ Chivers. The book is a social history of the AK-47 (which he has called a “stubbornly mediocre arm”) that examines the origins and proliferation of automatic arms, and their influence on war.

He chronicles the development of the AK in detail. For example, Chivers reports that contrary to popular belief the AK was not the sole brainchild of Mikhail Kalashnikov. Rather it was a rifle designed, Soviet style, by committee. If you’re going to read one book on the history of this rifle, this is it.

(CJ Chivers’ blog is also well worth visiting and has some graphic photos of the kind of mayhem that an AK can wreak.)

AK-47 the Grim Reaper by Frank Iannamico is considered by many as the definitive collector’s book on the AK platform. With 1100 plus pages, it covers the complete series of the AK rifles country by country, and is illustrated with photos that examine the most minute details. This entails photos of that identify individual rifles by manufacturer, year and serial number, markings, etc.

The World’s Assault Rifles by Gary Paul Johnston and Thomas B. Nelson is a 1200 page tome with nearly 2,000 illustrations that exhaustively covers every facet of the assault rifle, country by country. Take-down, theory of operation, and history of development are examined for all weapons. AK enthusiasts will note that the first chapter looks at the evolution of rifle ammunition with special attention to the genesis of the Russian 7.62x39mm AK-47 round.

Brian Conrad of Krebs Custom suggests that those interested in the AK should try to obtain Masami Tokoi’s masterpiece, AK-47 & Kalashnikov Variations, which is out of print.

 

Before you modifying or consider an AK-47 upgrade, consider a few words of advice:

Whatever aftermarket AK-47 part part you acquire, be aware that it may not always fit.

Sound strange?

Welcome to the AK universe.

Among the spectrum of Kalashnikov variants, there is no universal, Mil-Spec standard. From an American perspective this may seem odd, but it can be understood by considering the rifle’s genesis.

Though the Soviets demanded that Warsaw Pact constituents adopt the AK-47 as their military rifle, they allowed members to purchase them from either the Soviet Union or license and manufacture their own AK rifles. (Czechs were exempt for many reasons and instead of the AK fielded their own homegrown assault rifle, the Samopal vz. 58.)

The Soviets weren’t concerned about parts interchangeability with variants of different origins. They only required that the rifles all be of the same design and that they use the same magazines, the same standard 7.62×39 cartridges and the same manual of arms. Thus a Romanian soldier should be able to pick up and use an AK made in Hungary, East Germany, Russia, Bulgaria, etc., with equal facility.

The AK platform, in effect, became “Balkanized.” Every country (including many outside the old Soviet Bloc) produced its own slight variation on the theme. Whether

Serbian or Israeli, the specs, such as the thickness of the receiver, type of stock, etc., might be slightly different.

With this in mind, Jim Fuller, founder of Rifle Dynamics, once quipped that gunsmithing an AK is more akin to “blacksmithing.” What he meant was that building an AK always entailed modifying parts to make them fit. That may mean taking sandpaper, a file or even a dremel to the parts in question.

So why should the buyer be aware of this?

Although the average user will mostly likely not build an AK from the ground up, chances are he or she will add aftermarket parts. For that reason, it’s good to be cognizant of Fuller’s admonition.

The rule of thumb is that any part you add to your rifle may entail slight modification. This video from UltiMAK which illustrates how to install an Arsenal lower handguard in conjunction with their M1-B optic mount depicts typical modifications demanded when adding third party parts.

For someone who needs accessories, tactical handguards offer a place to mount optics, grips, lights and other items.

 

There are several features that differentiate the Krebs UFM system from other products.

First off is its KeyMod configuration. By definition KeyMod handguards are light because the fat is trimmed. Constructed with 6065 T6 aluminum, there are no Picatinny rails bulging out. The beauty of KeyMod is that you add weight only when necessary. If you need to affix a vertical grip or a light, simply slap your own rail and cinch it down exactly where you want it.

Installation of the UFM is not difficult. Krebs provides a set of aluminum angle irons that allow you to clamp down a fixture on the barrel without destroying the finish. Key to the set up process is squaring the handguard’s clamp (done easily with a level) with the receiver to ensure that the unit fits perfectly.

Installation takes about 30 minutes. The kit consists of Allen wrenches, bolts, a barrel clamp to secure the handguard and a couple of small angle irons that don’t quite look like they belong. (The instructions explain all.)

The ergonomics of this handguard are noteworthy. Unlike a conventional handguard/quad rail, which has all the comfort of a pineapple, the Krebs UFM is sleek, thin and quite comfortable to grip. It’s as if the handguard is an extension of the receiver.

It also doesn’t get hot when you are putting multiple rounds through it. When I put it through its paces, it never got warm enough to be uncomfortable.

One additional attribute: It’s also the only KeyMod rail that can be field-stripped. The upper rail section is easily removed by pinching two springs, pulling the upper section rearward, then up and off the rifle.

The price is $269.99. You can get handguards from other manufacturers such as Midwest Industries for less but they are not in the same class. In my opinion, Krebs Custom sets the standard.

Tdi-Arms, out of Israel, makes handguard/rail products for the AK used by the IDF. Of particular interest is its X47 Universal AK Rail system, a modular set up that can be used in several ways. This entails a lower handguard, a lower and upper handguard, or as a lower and extended optics mount. Products are available from Circle10AK.

UltiMAK has a comprehensive line of highly regarded AK products. They design and manufacture lightweight rail systems for Russian, Bulgarian, Chinese, Romanian, Serbian and other variants as well as Krinkovs, pistols and shotguns. They also sell gear such as optics and stock kits.

Taking the Minimalist Approach—a Lesson Learned

When it comes to adding handguards and other accessories, less can be more. Like many first-time AK buyers, when I got my rifle I started adding third-party parts and went overboard on the “tacticool.” This included items such as a full-length handguard, optics, fore grips, scope mounts and the like. Before I knew it, I was drowning in paraphernalia.

The lesson was that adding some of these components may make sense in some circumstances, such as home defense, but you need to be wary of “mission creep”. Loading up your rifle with gewgaws has its practical limits. For example, if you’re going to be proficient at shooting offhand, shouldering a 10-pound rifle gets old very quickly.

(My epiphany is hardly original. One of Larry Vickers’ maxims is “seriously resist the urge to over-accessorize the gun”.)

Given my own experience, I’ve become a proponent of minimalism.

 

Custom builders such as Rifle Dynamics, Krebs Custom, Definitive Arms and others strive to keep the weight down by using a combination of polymer furniture (often from Arsenal) and in some instances, even chopping the barrel two inches.

Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics takes the weight reduction process a step further by employing the Bolton Gas Block, a proprietary product manufactured by Venom Tactical.

This cleverly designed product is the latest incarnation of a technology used by the Israeli Galil, the Finnish Valmet RK62 and other rifles, combines both the front sight and gas block into a single assembly. The system allows you to remove the stock front sight block, which diminishes weight on the front end of the AK47/74 and makes handling the rifle easier. (According to Lenny Bolton, the founder of the company, these gas blocks have been proven reliable in combat conditions).

By placing the front sight atop the gas block, the barrel length can be shortened. Jim Fuller has integrated this system on many of his high end rifles. He says that with the proprietary gas block and a shortened barrel, he can take off as much as a pound from the front end. It doesn’t sound like a lot but in practice it’s very significant.

Lenny Bolton states that the shorter sight radius on his gas block/front sight provides faster target engagement. While losing a few inches of sight radius might concern some people, he says that it’s not an issue if you’re going to engage a target under 300 yards. The front sight is adjustable for windage with a simple screwdriver.

 

Bolton has sold thousands of the $99 gas blocks. However, he suggests that people without extensive experience should let a gunsmith install the part. If you’re interested in researching how to do it, this article in Rifleshooter.com will illustrate how.

If you’re going to use an optic on your minimalist rifle, there are ways to keep the weight down. Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics employs the UltiMAK M1-B optic mount on some of his AKs. This $98 product integrates both the handguard and the gas tube in its design which ends up adding less than an ounce to the rifle.

Lyle Keeney of UltiMAK says that a lightweight red dot atop the rail brings a great deal more “shootability” to a rifle without adding significant weight. It’s still a “minimalist” setup, he insists and is mandatory if you shoot at moving targets, in low light, or at targets of opportunity (requiring fast targeting on short notice).

 

You can get a wide variety of lightweight polymer handguard sets from K-Var. Their typical upper handguard is simply a U-shaped section of plastic which covers the gas tube. (Note that the gas tube must have a bracket to retain it). If your gas tube doesn’t have one, you can buy an entire assembly (upper handguard plus gas tube) for about $45. Keep in mind that there’s no rail atop this system so if you want to add an optic at a later date, you’ll need to pick up a side mount.

 

The second part of the equation is the lower handguard. K-VAR sells a variety of them from $23-75. All have a stainless steel heat shield. To add it, simply slip the rear end into the receiver and cinch down the opposite side with a special retainer ring or bracket.

There are two styles of retainers.

To keep a traditional look, you can purchase the standard-issue retainer ring from K-VAR for $30. It’s very solid and has a lever, similar to that on the rear sight block, to keep the lower handguard firmly affixed to the barrel. The only caveat is that with this particular setup you’ll have to remove the gas block and the front sight block from the rifle in order to install it. Removing both these parts takes special tools and is best left to a gunsmith.

If you want to keep your rifle as close to original as possible, this is the best way to go.

If you don’t want to go through the hassle of removing the above-mentioned parts, there’s a second style of retainer ring which consists of two pieces.

There are at least three small companies that make these parts. One of the manufacturers, DPH Arms, has a set screw in the center of their retainer ring to help keep it from shifting. It also has shims so that the same unit can be used on a standard AK or taken off so that the retainer can be used on the larger diameter VEPR barrel.

Generally, adding the retainer shouldn’t take any modifications to the handguard. However, Brian Smithwick of Dinzag Arms (which also manufactures retainers) suggests you create a small bulge on the heat shield with a pair of needle nose pliers if you have an AK-74. This protuberance will position the handguard off the barrel and underpin the fit to prevent the AK-74 handguard from sliding up at the front end of the retainer plate.

 

To install the retainer from Saiga-AK, one must add a notch or divot on the barrel keep the bracket in place.

I didn’t want to adulterate my barrel, nor remove the gas and front site blocks so I decided to go the DPH Arms route. If you are a stickler for detail, professional builders suggest that you use the original equipment retainer from Arsenal but if you don’t have the tools to remove the parts, the two-part brackets will do the trick. The DPH product retails for $44.99 and worked fine.

Both brackets feature a sling mount loop and a hole that secures the end of the cleaning rod. UltiMAK founder Lyle Keeney suggests that if you have a cleaning rod mounted below the barrel you consider removing it to reduced weight. If you need to clean your rifle in the field you can take a bore snake with you.

There’s third type of aluminum retainer available but I would not recommend it. It’s very easy to strip the threads on this item. You’ll want to make sure and purchase a retainer manufactured from steel.

Although the polymer handguards from Arsenal (or similar units made by other manufacturers), are great at keeping the weight down, a KeyMod handguard system is also an option if you feel it’s absolutely necessary to add other accessories, such as a light or a grip to your rifle.

KeyMod handguards, such as the AK-UFM model for AKM rifles manufactured by Krebs Custom, are made from aircraft aluminum and they are really light. At 6.6 ounces (including the Picatinny rail) it definitely falls into the “minimalist” camp.

Another weight saving measure is to change out your buttstock if you’re using a collapsible, AR 15-style system. There are a number of lightweight units available including the Rogers Super-Stoc, the Mission First Tactical “Minimalist” model and the CTR from Magpul. In this chapter (see section below) I’ve reviewed these products and other options that are both comfortable, and lightweight.

The lesson is to think twice before you buying add-ons, such as a full-blown tactical handguard/rail system. If you can eschew adding stuff that you don’t really need, or replace your existing gear with something lighter, by all means do so.

With AKs less is always more.

Short discourse on cheek weld

In this chapter we will examine a host of buttstocks, so I thought it important to first discuss the concept of cheek weld.

Cheek weld is fundamentally the position your head is on the rifle when lining up the sights for a shot.

An ideal cheek weld is the single spot or location you return to every time you position your cheek on the buttstock. In order to become a consistent shooter, you’ll want to replicate this action. A proper cheek weld will ensure that you get on your target quickly and accurately.

The correct cheek weld will by definition be comfortable. It has to feel right and it won’t be the same for every shooter.

Your cheek weld will depend on your anatomy as well as the shape of the buttstock, its length, and all the other elements that go into ergonomics.

Some buttstocks will simply feel more comfortable than others.

Like Cinderella trying on her slippers, it is incumbent upon you to evaluate a number of stocks to determine which one will work best for you. You’ll also want to make sure that if you’re planning to buy a folding, triangle-type stock, you test it out before you acquire it.

Another advantage of a proper cheek weld is the capacity to quickly recover from recoil. If you’re shooting a gun with some kick, you’ll want to be “anchored,” albeit ergonomically, to the rifle, so as to be rapidly back on target.

The key is that you find the gear that’s comfortable and allows you to use the sights on your gun. This can sometimes be a tricky proposition with an AK, especially when using optics.

Using optics with a side mount can change the geometry because the device will usually be mounted higher than iron sights. Thus, in order to use the optic, you may have to reposition your cheek weld.

This is not something that you necessarily want to do in a radical manner.

In other words, you want the stock to rest on your cheek—not your chin. Putting your chin on the gun is at the minimum uncomfortable or, in the worst case, a painful experience, if the recoil whacks you in an unforgiving manner.

If using the optic necessitates moving your cheek weld to an uncomfortable positon, the solution might be to find a buttstock that will have an adjustable cheek rest that can be elevated. These will allow you to see through the optic without changing your basic position.

AR-15 Buttstocks for the AK

Adding an AR 15-style buttstock to an AK is a popular exercise for AK users.

When selecting a buttstock, there are two main points to consider: comfort and weight.

With this in mind, we looked at five different popular options that we think will work splendidly with your AK.

Magpul CTR

It’s become de rigueur for Magpul to be everybody’s go-to furniture. When it comes to AKs, the CTR (compact/type restricted) buttstock is a very popular option. No wonder. It’s very solid and looks good. There’s no irritating wobble that less well-engineered stocks exhibit, and it provides a good cheek weld.

The A-frame design will help you avoid snags, and the release latch, which is shielded, is a great feature. I had no accidental release-latch encounters and the friction lock ensured a rattle-free experience.

The CTR Mil-Spec model I reviewed comes with a removable 0.30-inch rubber butt pad. CTR has a larger butt pad available, if that’s what you need, but I don’t think this will be a problem, even with a 7.62x39mm AK.

If your goal is to find a reasonably priced, comfortable, well-constructed buttstock, then it’s hard to argue against considering a CTR, which weighs in at 252 grams.

The manufacturer’s suggested retail price is around $80, and you can get it on sale for as low as $60. Not a bad deal. As they used to say, “No one ever got fired buying IBM.” You could say the same about Magpul.

Rogers Super-Stoc

The Rogers Super-Stoc may not be as popular as other brands, but that shouldn’t stop you from giving it consideration. It’s strong, lightweight, and sports a patented “Cam-Lock” system that is designed to remove excessive play, which is all too often found on collapsible stocks.

It has a removable recoil pad, sling loop, quick detach sling swivel mount and quick release lever, which unlocks the Cam-Lock and indexing pin with one motion.

It’s also got an innovative one-size-fits-all feature — it will accommodate both Mil-Spec and commercial buffer tubes. You’d think other manufacturers might have figured this one out. But you’d be wrong.

Rogers has hit upon a product that occupies a sweet spot in the buttstock spectrum. It’s a good-quality offering that’s going to appeal to competitive shooters and range rats while occupying an affordable niche at $75.

When I first took the stock out of the box, the first word to jump into my mind was “minimalist.” It reminded me of a fish skeleton. Not an ounce of fat on this baby.

It’s comfortable, though, and the butt pad provides for an ergonomic fit on the shoulder.

The tolerance on the buffer tube is super snug. Even if the Cam-Lock is not cinched down, it’s tight. The Cam-Lock on the Super-Stoc is reminiscent of the CTR design, which also has a front-locking lever. However, the Super-Stoc is engineered differently and, perhaps, even better.

The CTR utilizes a front-locking lever that secures the quick release lever. However, the Super-Stoc’s front Cam-Lock lever serves as an additional point of contact to lock down the stock to the rifle, making the connection even stronger.

I also liked the Cam-Lock lever’s ambidextrous capabilities. It comes stock on the right-hand side but, if you want to reverse sides, it’s easy to swap out.

It’s also very durable, performing admirably in a “Military Times” review called “Buttstock Bashfest.”

The only thing it doesn’t have is as much real estate as some of the others for cheek-weld purposes, but there’s certainly enough to make it work.

This product is used by Colt on some of its government-issue rifles.

At 186 grams, it’s tied for No. 1, as least heavy.

Vltor EMOD A5

Vltor makes excellent products and its EMod “A5” Combo Kit is no exception. It consists of a receiver extension, A5 mid-length buffer (standard weight), M16A2/A5 Action Spring, receiver end lock, and receiver end-lock nut plate.

I wanted a comfortable piece of furniture for precision shooting that could provide an ergonomically correct cheek weld for around $200. Having compartments that could secure ear plugs, batteries and the like was cool, but the paramount goal was comfort and utility.

The stock bears a striking similarity to the Lewis Machine Tool (LMT) SOPMOD model (and the B5 System’s clone). Vltor says that the A5 kit is perfect for piston style rifle systems, and it worked well with the AK, which is, indeed, a piston system.

The Vltor website provides a description of the specs that include a longer receiver extension with seven adjustment points and a specially weighted buffer utilizing the M16A2 action spring. I could only find five adjustment positions. (Where did the other two go?)

The EMod is approximately ¾-inch longer than a standard M4 carbine stock. It’s designed it for big people, with long arms in mind.

To move the stock up and down the tube, you need to depress a flat operation paddle with your fingertips. It’s not that sexy or convenient, especially if the tube refuses to budge. I like the friction lock on the Magpul and Rogers stocks much better—they are simply easier to operate.

The good news is that with these tight tolerances, there isn’t a lot of wobble, especially if the stock is slid all the way.

That said, there is a teeny bit of wobble in a fully extended position—more than on the Magpul and Rogers stocks we tested.

The cheek weld is great on this — equivalent to the SOPMOD model from LMT.

The bottom line is, I liked the stock. It’s expensive but has the benefit of extra real estate to place your cheek as well as two tubes for batteries and a tiny, flip-open storage box (suitable for earplugs) and a steel strike plate at the bottom. It was the heaviest, at 391 grams, of all the ones we tested. Price for the buttstock (as opposed to the kit) is $95.

Mission First Tactical Battlelink Minimalist Stock

The Battlelink Minimalist Stock caught my eye because of its light weight and innovative design.

The “Shepard’s Hook” is eye-catching and works quite well with an AK.

At about 185 gr (with the 8 feet of braided paracord) it’s lighter than the Magpul CTR – roughly equivalent to the “super” light Roger’s Super-Stoc.

Mounting it was a bit of task. The spring-loaded pin that frees up the stock to slip in the buffer tube is short and quite stiff. Using your fingers is brutal. Instead, you’ll need a channel lock or the butt end of a spoon to shift the pin far enough to slip the tube in. Once in, there’s no rotation or slippage and no need for a lock, as on the CTR, because the tolerances are so darn close.

The model I acquired, known as the BMSMILNRAT- BMS, has braided paracord strung from the tip of the buttstock to the base. The whole effect reminds me of those triangles we had to deal with in geometry class.

For the record, the woven paracord is officially called a “NEMO Rapid Assault Team Strap or NRAT Strap.”

I must say it looks pretty cool. The strap slightly obstructs the QD mount, but applying a little elbow grease will allow you access.

Mission First Tactical succeeded in building a distinctive, light, aesthetically pleasing product. I was concerned that the Shepard’s Hook would catch on my clothing, but, to date, I’ve yet to catch it on anything.

The top side of the stock has lot of real estate — even more than the Magpul CTR. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the difficulty of putting it on and removing it from the tube. If you’re not planning on swapping it out a great deal, this won’t be an issue.

I suspect you’ll see more of these on AKs as time goes by. MSRP is $84.99 — or $60 without the braided paracord.

 

LMT SOPMOD

Military-issue gear is by definition, pretty cool. It’s been vetted and battle-tested.

The LMT SOPMOD is no exception. LMT, according to its website, “is the sole provider of the SOPMOD Buttstock to the U.S. Special Ops Command, U.S. Army, U.S. Navy, U.S. Air Force, U.S. Marine Corps and other government agencies and bureaus.”

 

I decided to look at this buttstock because one of its clones, the B5 Systems SOPMOD, is popular with some of the top AK builders. It occurred to me that it would be better to look at the real deal—the original that the emulations are modeled after.

The stock has a very substantial feel about it. It’s made as one piece, and built like a tank. It has a great cheek weld and two watertight battery-access storage tubes that will keep the interior dry up to 66 feet. (Let’s hope you don’t put yourself in that position!) There’s a substantial rubber butt plate that reduces felt recoil and offers a no-slip surface against clothing, web gear and body armor.

As expected, there are quick-detach sling swivel mounts on either side. Installing the stock was easy and the fit was quite tight. No wobble in the least. The stock looks cool and is ergonomically correct. I can understand why they make clones of this.

If you ditch the storage tubes, which I suggest, you dock another 50 grams, bringing the weight to a very respectable 307 grams. At $200 it’s expensive, but the genuine article.

Stock adapters and folding stocks

You may decide that a fixed stock is not comfortable, in which case you should consider an AR-style collapsible stock. There are a slew of options ranging from collapsible systems to folders and combinations thereof. In this section we’ll look at some products that will help transform your rifle.

The AR-style collapsible stock offers an almost infinite latitude for operators of every physical description. With one click, a 6-foot, 4-inch shooter will be able to use the same rifle just as easily as someone who is 5’4.” It also comes in handy for those who need to adjust for body armor, heavy clothing, etc.

Second, the geometry of the AR buttstock provides a slightly elevated cheek weld compared to a standard AK. This affords more comfort and a sight picture that works both with the stock iron sights and, if you so choose, optics.

This cheek rise is extremely important to AK users says Justin McMillion of JMAC Customs, whose West Virginia-based company designs adapters for Arsenal 104 rifles and other variants. His adapter provides a 3/8-inch rise which allows users to better utilize iron sights. (The product also allows for a QD sling mount to be added).

In addition to JMAC Customs, adapters that will accommodate AR-style collapsible stocks are available from Vltor, Rifle Dynamics, CANIS Design Group, DPH Arms, and other manufacturers. R&R Targets makes one specifically for a Saiga shotgun.

Rifle Dynamics AK to M-4 Stock Adapter

An M4 or AR-15-style collapsible buttstock has become very popular with AK owners. Enter the Rifle Dynamics AK to M-4 system designed by Jim Fuller.

Not only is a collapsible stock more comfortable to use, it’s also better suited for shooters who want to utilize optics.

Here’s why: The original AK was designed for use exclusively with iron sights. Adding an optic to an AK was secondary and, hence, was never engineered to have the proper ergonomics to support “glass.”

As alluded to above, often an optic placed on side rail mount, or on a rail atop the receiver or dust cover, isn’t always ergonomic. The optic almost always sits too high or the stock simply sits too low to afford a cheek weld that provides a comfortable way to get a proper sight picture.

The operator has to compensate by moving up his or her cheek weld, which can be both uncomfortable and impractical. The Rifle Dynamics system rectifies this issue by changing the geometry of the stock so that it sits higher, thus giving your cheek a vertical boost.

Gen 1 and Gen 2 

Gen 1 and Gen 2 Rifle Dynamics has two versions of its adapter. We installed the original “Gen 1” version of the product.

We were told the Gen 2 system places the stock at a slightly lower angle than Gen 1.

Jim Fuller, the man behind Rifle Dynamics, told me he did this because some users suggested that the angle of the Gen 1 was such that they couldn’t use the iron sights efficiently, though as a Gen 1 user I haven’t found this an issue.

Installing the RD System

Adding the adapter essentially means adding four bolts. However, there is a technique to getting it to fit perfectly. The real trick is making sure that you align the adapter squarely to the back of the receiver.

Part of the install process will entail adding Loctite to the bolt threads, so it will have to be done in an efficient manner. The end result is both aesthetically pleasing and very robust.

The adapter bolts right over the tang, so no modifications of the gun are necessary.

Utilizing the tang makes the assembly extremely strong. Additionally, any sling adapter that fits on the AR buffer tube should work with this set up.

Shooting my Saiga, after mounting the adapter, felt ergonomically correct. It was comfortable to use and an improvement over the collapsible buttstock that came with the rifle. I was able to use both the iron sights and a red dot with ease.

 

Installing the Right “Folder”

AKs with folding stocks (folders) are very much in vogue.

Why would someone need a folder?

If you’re a professional who jumps out of airplanes or does contracting work that necessitates concealability and compactness, then you really must have one. If you’re not someone who fits this description, but a folder saves you storage space and looks cool, then it may also be an attractive option.

Side folders are available in several options that include a standard polymer buttstock on a hinge (from Arsenal) or as triangular or wire-style stocks.

In addition to side folders (both left and right), there are also “underfolders,” which, as the description implies, fold downward into a compact package. This design was originally used by paratroopers and other elite military units. The triangular folders and underfolders don’t provide a lot of cheek weld and in my experience are not comfortable. They are not recommended for the novice.Some of the more popular side folders combine the features of a collapsible stock and, of course, the folding element. These are both aesthetically appealing and quite comfortable to use.

A company called CNC Warrior makes particularly good side folding buttstocks in this category, designed in collaboration with and distributed by Bonesteel Arms LLC.

Likewise, one can also acquire an excellent folding adapter that accommodates a collapsible stock from a firm called StormWerkz.

Mako Group, an Israeli company, makes folding stocks as well as a combination folder-collapsible buttstock but I have found their customer service lacking.

(Note that before you add the folder, you’ll need an adapter that bolts to the back of the receiver, usually on the tang).

If you don’t want to mess with adding a separate folding mechanism and you simply want to attach a complete, folding, collapsible stock, Magpul’s new Zhukov-S is a good bet. It works both with the AK-47 and AK-74. With a 5-position pull adjustment, it’s sturdy, well-designed and available in five colors. Price is $99.95.

 

StormWerkz and Bonesteel/CNC folders

StormWerkz features a symmetrically sided wedge that the inventor, Josh Miller, says will allow the locking mechanism to wear evenly and last longer. It’s available from his website for $75.

Installing the StormWerkz folder is easy. Simply torque down two 10/32 5/8-inch bolts that come with the device and cinch it down to the adapter with some Loctite. The result is a folder that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

It was simple to use and locked up tight at full length. It also locks up when folded. The stock was quite rigid and, short of using it to hammer down railroad spikes, should be quite durable.

Keep in mind:  to complete the job you’ll need an AR-15 buffer tube, castle nut and endplate. Price for the StormWerkz folder is $75.

The Bonesteel product line includes items designed for a variety of platforms, including the AR-15, AK /VEPR, Galil, PSL, Saiga and vz. 58. The folding mechanisms are integrated with Galil type stocks or with an M4 collapsible stock.

The appealing thing about the Bonesteel/CNC product for the VEPR is that it’s plug-and-play. Just bolt the whole enchilada to the back of the tang, add the pistol grip, and you’re ready to rock.

The Mil-Spec tube is machined from aircraft aluminum and pinned onto the folding mechanism — and it’s exceedingly light, just 12.5 ounces for just the hardware and 19.5 ounces or thereabouts with a buttstock attached.

Fit and finish on this item are superb — it has a shiny black anodized look that blends in perfectly with the VEPR color scheme.

The stock has six positions that will adjust to just about anyone, which is, after all, why you want a collapsible stock

If you really need to get up close and personal, you can bring the stock almost flush with the tang. It also has a memory-stop feature that allows for an instant extension to where ever you want to set it.

This is how it works: Each position has a threaded hole behind it for a cap screw to set a preset stop. Thus, if you never go beyond the No. 4 position, you won’t be fumbling around trying to find the right spot.

I found the stock easy to manipulate without feeling like I was going to damage the hinge, if I somehow tweaked it the wrong way. It tucks to the right and folds closely to the rifle. Also included is a quick-detach (Q/D) sling swivel, which comes in handy.

It’s perfect for someone who wants to go the folder route without having to buy an extra adapter and the other associated parts.

If you add up all the components of the StormWerkz/Krebs combo above, you’ll pay $100 for the Krebs adapter and an additional $75 for the folder. That’s not counting an additional $40 for the tube, castle nut and endplate.

Contrast that with the total for the Bonesteel/CNC folder, which runs about $149.

If you do plan to purchase a side folder, consider which side the stock and hinge combination employ. A folder that folds to the right can interfere with the charging handle, and a left-sided unit may interfere with a side optic mount.

Magazines

The AK rifle has a well-deserved reputation for reliability. Making sure the weapon would fire upon demand under trying battlefield conditions, first time and every time, was one of the primary goals of the engineering team responsible for the design, development, and production of the AK-47. However, any rifle (or any machine for that matter) is only as reliable as its least dependable part. In the case of self-loading rifles, the device responsible for feeding ammunition to the breech mechanism is critical.

That part is called a magazine — not a clip, which in technical firearm terms is something different.

If the magazine assembly is faulty or poorly designed, the rifle cannot be relied upon to feed ammunition properly.

At the range or local plinking area, feeding malfunctions can be frustrating and lead to potentially dangerous conditions within the rifle. In a self-defense situation, they can cost you everything.

There’s a vast array of magazines available for the AK today. Capacities range from two- or three-round box magazines meant for hunting, to drums that will hold 75 rounds or more. Originally made from steel, they also can be found with bodies made entirely from synthetics (various types of plastic) or a mixture of synthetics plus steel reinforcing at critical points, such as the front and rear locking lugs and the feed lips.

Regardless of body type, all magazines are supplied with springs made of steel. Nobody to date has managed to come up with a strong, durable, reliable spring made of polymer.

By far the most ubiquitous AK magazines worldwide are the familiar, curved banana-type designed by the Soviets and issued to Warsaw Pact forces as standard military equipment. Each standard AK magazine holds 30 rounds of ammunition. Originally mass-produced by various manufacturers in Eastern Europe, the classic 30-round AK box magazine is robustly built of steel, almost bullet-proof and, like the AK itself, relentlessly reliable.

They are also heavy, anywhere from 11 to 14 ounces empty, depending on the maker. By way of comparison, a standard 30-round aluminum M16 magazine weighs in at about 4 ounces, empty. A steel AK magazine loaded with 30 rounds of military ball ammunition weighs close to 2 pounds, which is quite a load of ballast to add to your AK for casual shooting offhand.

By far the best are military surplus magazines. They were built with reliability and durability in mind, and for use under the most adverse conditions imaginable. You can find them from a variety of suppliers, in any condition, from old rust-buckets with dents and sometimes even bullet holes, to unissued as-new condition. Surplus military magazines in good condition are probably your safest bet, and come in steel and synthetic versions.

A tip: If you’re buying surplus, avoid magazines with dents. They can cause feeding problems. Rusty magazines are not desirable unless you like do-it-yourself cleanup and repair projects, assuming the rust is just a mild surface feature. Avoid magazines with deep pits or extensive damage inside and out.

Loading an AK-47 magazine. (Courtesy Wikimedia Commons)

Steel magazines can be found in many capacities, not just the 30-round variety. One of our personal favorites is the Hungarian 20-round steel magazine, though they are not easy to locate. Commercial five- and 10-round steel magazines are out there as well, but can likewise be difficult to find and are considerably more expensive than the ex-military 30-rounders.

Synthetic magazines have become increasingly common over the years, to the point where in the U.S. they are now at least as readily available as steel. Made by a variety of manufactures from a wide array of different types of plastic, they are lighter than steel, will not rust or dent, and can be had in a range of colors. Some of the best include the military surplus Soviet Bakelite-style, and Bulgarian “Circle 10” polymer magazines, both of which feature steel reinforcing at critical points.

The Circle 10, which I’ve had a chance to use, is utterly reliable and has almost no play or wobble once inserted in the magazine well. This brand is easily recognized by their logo, the number 10 stamped inside a circle and the magazine’s waffle-patterned body. Priced at around $45, they are not cheap but it’s a question of getting what you pay for.

Steel reinforcing is especially desirable in magazines that will see a lot of heavy use or will be employed for self-defense, because the steel helps ensure that the critical parts will be less prone to failure due to wear and physical abuse.

Synthetic magazines are also commonly encountered without steel reinforcing elements, but most regard such as only suitable for casual range or plinking use.

I have used such magazines as supplied by U.S. companies Tapco, U.S. Palm, Pro-Mag and Magpul, and all performed well.

Every nation that builds AKs also builds magazines exclusively for their rifles. Generally, any military-surplus magazine in 7.62×39 or 5.45×39 will work in any standard AK of the corresponding caliber. But as we have seen with other AK parts, there can be exceptions. You may well have to experiment a bit to find out if a particular type of magazine is acceptable to your AK and its unique pedigree.

Choosing a magazine

A candidate AK magazine should be tested for fit. Make sure that both the rifle and the magazine are unloaded, and that the rifle is on safe with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. The magazine should slide in to the magazine well on the rifle with a firm feel. The front lug should engage the front of the magazine well easily.

Rocking the magazine back into place, there should be a solid click as the rear magazine latch on the rifle engages the magazine locking tab on the rear of the magazine. There should be no or very little wobble of the magazine from side to side, and none from front to back.There will be some slight variation in fit for magazines of the same model and manufacturer, but it will be slight.

If several examples of the same type of empty magazine won’t lock firmly into place as described, you’d better try another make of magazine for your AK.

Once you’ve determined that they fit, take your candidate magazines to the range with your rifle. Nothing will substitute for running each of the magazines in the rifle in live fire to make sure everything operates correctly and reliably.

If you do any research on the subject, you will find a wide range of opinion as to which magazines you should absolutely avoid purchasing. Yes, there are some real lemons out there. Some of them are even made by companies that manage to produce perfectly acceptable military magazines for other types of rifles, so be careful.

For example, many of the steel magazines made in South Korea are widely regarded as cheaply made and unreliable. Avoiding them might be a good idea.

Others report that they have had trouble with some makes of U.S. polymer magazines.

In the end, as with most things, you are best served by reading the various reviews and opinions and drawing your own conclusions.

And always do your own tests with a new magazine before you trust your well-being to it.

For our critical applications, we prefer to stick to magazines made by the same manufacturer as the rifle. It’s the safest bet.

Trigger Upgrade

The standard trigger system (aka fire control group) that you’ll find on most AKs is the G2 model from Tapco. It’s a decent trigger and, with some modifications can be an excellent trigger. The modifications entail smoothing out a few rough edges on the hammer. If you’re interested in researching this, there are number of videos on this subject. R&R Targets has developed a good trigger based on the Tapco.

A better option is to purchase the AKT trigger system from ALG, a subsidiary of Geissele, a company renowned for excellent AR 15 (and other rifle) triggers . It’s priced under $50. I have this on my own rifle and love it.  Krebs Custom also has an excellent trigger modified from the Geissele.

Instead of taking a file or sandpaper to the trigger, another option is to swap out the fire control group. There are some good videos that will show you, step by step, how to do so. Changing out your FCG is not an inordinately difficult task for someone who has a modicum of mechanical skills and common sense.

Why would you want to replace a decent trigger in the first place?

Some folks, especially those who have owned rifles or 1911 pistols with good triggers are simply fussy. Or they may want their AK to have a quick reset for rapid fire.

There are any number of reasons but it comes down to an individual’s specific needs or desires.

Unlike some trigger sets for the AR, most AK triggers are not adjustable. One exception is the model from Red Star Arms, which can be adjusted as a one or two-stage affair.

A company called CMC Triggers  has a new drop-in style model specifically for the AK. It’s the first decent modular trigger for the AK that I’ve tested.

The only word of caution, and this goes for installing any third-party part in an AK, is be certain that the trigger you acquire will work precisely with your AK.

I installed a Red Star Arms trigger on a VEPR and eventually got it working, but it was a real chore to do so, meaning we had to take dremel and do quite a bit of grinding on the safety. This is not something for the beginner.

The Joys of Trigger Slap

Another reason to install a new trigger is if after you purchase your gun you experience “trigger slap.”

Trigger slap is a common occurrence in AKs. You’ll certainly know it when you feel it.

Trigger slap is the stinging sensation of the trigger springing back or “slapping” the shooter’s trigger finger during firing.

It’s a sharp, unambiguous jolt that can occur with every shot or intermittently, sometimes favoring a particular type of ammunition. It’s often misdiagnosed as an ammo problem.

It can be mitigated by changing out the trigger, or you can have a gunsmith or someone very familiar with an AK fire-control group fix it.

It’s caused, says AK maven Rick Davis, when there’s insufficient clearance between the hammer, trigger and the disconnector. When this happens, the force of the resetting hammer is transferred into the trigger through the disconnector, causing the trigger to abruptly “slap” forward.

Says Davis:

“If there’s too much material on the rear disconnector pad, it will lack adequate clearance between the bolt carrier, disconnector and trigger. This results in a chain collision between the bolt carrier, disconnector and the trigger. The energy is then transferred into the shooter’s finger, producing the ‘slap’ sensation.

He says this can be corrected by removing just enough material on the rear of the disconnector near the spring well. Remove only enough to allow proper clearance, no more.

Lyle Keeney, founder of UltiMAK, has a slightly different take on the matter. Says Keeney:

“The only cause I’ve seen was that the camming angles between the hammer and the disconnector were such that the disconnector was being accelerated backward so violently that no amount of clearance would solve the slap. Only by reshaping the camming angles between hammer and disconnector, providing a more gentle rearward motion of the disconnector, was the slap eliminated entirely.”

Keeney states that it’s easy to check for adequate (disconnector-to-trigger) clearance by holding the trigger all the way back as you slowly pull the carrier back to cock the piece, or simply cock the hammer by manipulating it directly with the carrier removed.

If the trigger is not forced forward at all while cocking the disconnector over the hammer, you probably have enough clearance, and should therefore look elsewhere to solve the slap issue.

As alluded to above, if you’re not experienced, correcting trigger slap may not be a task you want to attempt.

However, smoothing out a gritty trigger is do-able, if you’re not aggressive about removing too much metal.

There are a number of videos that will show you how to smooth out the action by applying a little sandpaper or emery cloth. Graham Baates does a nice job with this video.

 

Safety lever Replacement

The humble safety lever is usually not high on the customization list for neophytes, but it should be.

I suggest you consider swapping out your stock safety lever for a Krebs Custom model. The Krebs products are an enhancement of the original part because they help the shooter perform a simple but extremely important task —taking full control of the operation of the safety lever. The design allows for continuous finger contact throughout the entire range of motion.

The extended shelf on the lever is ergonomically correct and easy to operate. You can flip the safety with your trigger finger while keeping the shooting hand firmly around the pistol grip.

The location and shape of the lever, a distinct curve, allows the finger to instantly return to the trigger in one fell swoop.

You’re not going to be distracted or lose your sight-picture, even when using an optic.

Another innovation not immediately noticeable to the novice is a bolt hold-open (aka BHO) slot on the lever. The BHO catch allows the operator to easily keep the bolt open so that the range officer can observe whether there’s a round in the chamber.

For years the standard replacement for the stock safety was his Mk VI series ($59), which Krebs designed for Russian-pattern milled and stamped receivers.

The newest addition to the Krebs line is the Mk VII “Ambi Enhanced Safety” ($65.00) made for both left- and right-handed shooters.

Right-handed shooters can manipulate the safety with their index finger and lefties can do so with their thumb.

Quality and finish are first-class on all models. The coating is a durable, smooth matte. The good news is that you don’t have to pay a gunsmith to swap out your safely. Even if you’re a rank amateur, they are easy to install. Simply remove the recoil spring and rotate the old safety toward you. At a certain point, it will pop out of the hole in the receiver. Put the new one exactly where the old one was and rotate in the opposite direction (down). The recoil spring goes in, as does the dust cover. Bingo, you’re done.

In addition to the Krebs Custom series, I’ve heard good things about the R&R Targets safety. The caveat is that it’s not a drop-in. Your gunsmith will have to do some tweaking.

Muzzle brakes and flash hiders

Generally, AK-47 barrel muzzles are threaded with a 14mm x 1mm, left-hand pattern to accept a muzzle device such as a muzzle brake, a compensator or a flash hider.

Beginning with the AK-74, manufacturers went to the front-sight base (FSB) threading instead of barrel threading. The threads are 24mm.It’s important to know the differences between these devices.

A brake uses the escaping gasses to pull the rifle away from you, lessening the recoil.

Brakes can usually be identified by their walls or baffles running nearly perpendicular to the barrel. These walls trap the gasses, and the resulting impact is the pull that lessens the force of the rifle coming back into your shoulder.

The gases escaping to the sides, and sometimes slightly toward the rear of the rifle, carry heat, force and noise with them, making brakes less than ideal for shooting in close quarters with teammates, family or even solid objects that you don’t want blasted with hot air.

This also explains why it can seem that one rifle is louder than another, despite being the same caliber or model.

A compensator uses the same principles to push the muzzle downward, compensating for the tendency to rise.

Compensators are easily identified by having vents on the top and fewer vents or no vents on the bottom.

As the gases rush out of the barrel, they slam into the “floor” of the brake and are redirected upward.

Compensators will have less percussion than a brake, but along with those gasses rushing upwards is an accompanying flash.

Flash-hiders are fashioned with the intent to divide the escaping gasses and minimize their combustion signature — the flash that you sometimes see after firing.

The most effective flash-hiders divide the gases and redirect them in as many directions as possible around the muzzle.

Flash-hiders are useful when trying to keep your position concealed or in home-defense situations, when the objective should be to not blind yourself with the first shot.

The drawback here is that those gasses have a tendency to kick up dust, making prone shots irritating at the least and prone follow-ups difficult to dangerous in some situations.

If the wind is not in your favor, the concealed flash does you no good because now your opponent sees a much longer-lasting puff of dust!

So, if they all have drawbacks, which one is best?

The answer depends on your use of the rifle. For the average plinker or even competitive shooter, flash is not an issue, though it can be temporarily blinding in low light.

For most shooters of any physical bulk, the recoil of most popular AK calibers also isn’t a problem.

For most of us, however, compensation is the priority, followed by braking.

There are oodles of brakes on the market—too many to be reviewed in this book but we did have a chance to look at a few high-end models — the Venom Tactical Antidote ($195) and the new RRD-4 (aka Recoil Reduction Device) at $93 from JMAC Customs. Both are configured with side baffles.

We liked this configuration for one main reason.

Muzzle devices with ports on the top and below can result in what Justin McMillion, founder of JMAC Customs, calls “cheek slap”. This is when downward pressure is applied to the front of the rifle and like a fulcrum, the buttstock rises and smacks your cheek, especially at higher rates of fire. This makes it difficult to retain your sight picture and can intensify felt recoil.

You’re simply not going to get a lot of muzzle rise with these two brakes because the gasses are expended sideways. If you’re going to be doing a lot of rapid fire you’ll be able to avoid the “cheek slap” syndrome with these two devices. I found both very effective at maintaining barrel stability.

In addition to keeping the barrel steady, both these items do a good job of keeping the flash down as well.

From the shooter’s perspective, both aren’t particularly noisy but with the gasses spitting out sideways, I wouldn’t want to be the in the position next to either of these.

They are extremely well finished and light, with the Antidote weighing in at 3.4 ounces and the RRD-4 at 3.5 ounces. At 2.6 inches, the Antidote is only a tenth of an inch longer than the RRD-4.

I could certainly feel the difference between these high end brakes from lesser ones and I suspect most people would also be able to do so. Are they worth the price for the average shooter? Probably not, but the Antidote and other high-end muzzle devices are not meant for the typical shooter. You’ll find the Antidote on $2000 semi-custom guns produced by Jim Fuller where some owners will wring every ounce of performance out of their rifles. In particular I thought the RRD-4 to be effective and a good value, even at $93, if you put a lot rounds through your rifle.

Of course, when considering what brake to purchase you need to focus on your requirements. If you’re not going to be doing a lot of rapid fire shooting, chances are you’re not going to need an expensive muzzle device to stabilize the barrel. Likewise, if you know that you’re going to mostly shoot off the bench (as is the case with most people I see at the range) then a heavier brake, which may not be as expensive as the higher-end models, is quite acceptable.

Two other models I’ve looked at, the K-VAR AK-74 style brake from Krebs Custom and the Jet brake available from Circle 10 AK, are both of excellent quality and less pricey than the high end merchandise.

 

High End vs. Bargain Brakes

With all the verbiage I’ve devoted to pricey muzzle devices, one may legitimately ask if it’s worth spending the extra money for these products.

One of my sources for this the book, Graham Baates, decided to test the effectiveness of inexpensive brakes and compare them with the costlier models.

He took nine commonly available muzzle devices advertised as brakes to a local range and fired them all from the same position, with a fixed camera on one side and a grid on the opposite side.

He then took freeze-frame shots of the moment before the shot and the moment of highest rise and deepest recoil after the shot. He then measured the depth and height of travel and used the Pythagorean Theorem to measure the total distance traveled.

This is far more than the average consumer needs to do, but it did give him a chance to observe the behavior of different muzzle brakes.

His conclusion was that the inexpensive brakes, ranging from $10 to $40, are a bargain. Here’s a video of his tests which included devices mostly from Carolina Shooters Supply.

Baates, a competitive shooter, said he uses a $20 brake on his AK simply because the potential increase in performance for a more expensive models don’t outweigh the cost difference.

 

Removing a Muzzle Brake

Unless the barrel threads are caked with carbon and gunk, muzzle brakes are fairly easy to remove. Just keep the rifle stationary and depress the tiny spring-loaded detent with a punch or something similar as you remove the brake.

They are usually left-handed threads, so be certain you know which direction to turn.

When purchasing your rifle, you may want to be certain you’re able to swap out the existing brake, if for some reason you’re interested in an upgrade. Although the standard specs for the thread are 14mm x 1mm LH (left-handed), it doesn’t mean that your third-party brake or flash-hider will necessarily fit your existing thread.

(Note that the muzzle devices on the AK-74s are threaded to 24mm and are right-handed. The exception to this is the Yugo Krinkov which has 26mm left-handed threads.)

According to Kevin Stender, customer service manager at Tapco, the largest manufacturer of muzzle brakes in the U.S., “AK barrels are notorious for having ‘in spec’ barrel threads that don’t match up with ‘in spec’ muzzle brakes.

Acceptable tolerances on threads,” he said, “could allow for the barrel’s threads to be on the tight side and the muzzle brake on the loose side, or vice versa.”

To make them fit, Stender suggests taking a 14mm x 1mm LH die and run it over the barrel’s threads.

“This”, he said, “will shave a little metal off but leave it exactly how it’s supposed to be.”

Denny Butts, founder of CNC Warrior, which manufactures muzzle brakes as well as barrel-threading and cutting tools, concurs with Stender.

Butts said that many older guns with foreign-made, Arsenal barrels have threads that are smaller than spec. Thus, muzzle devices that are made to spec are usually very loose-fitting on these particular guns. Therefore, most AK muzzle-device manufacturers run their threads slightly below spec to make them fit better.

 

My colleague, RN Price, and I decided to try do a little home-rethreading job on a converted Saiga that had been fitted with a Tapco muzzle brake but wouldn’t accept other 14 x 1mm LH models.

We acquired a $30 die (see above) from CNC Warrior and put the muzzle thread through some re-grooving. It worked like a charm.

After the rethread, we were easily able to affix a Krebs Custom flash-hider and a Jet brake from Circle10 AK.

If you’re at all interested in swapping out a brake from a rifle that you are about to purchase, it’s a good idea to see if the thread on your rifle will accept other models.

You can always ask the dealer if it is willing to let you check before you buy. Of course, if you don’t intend to replace or upgrade your stock muzzle brake, this won’t be an issue.

Be aware that some states or local governments may not allow flash-hiders.

Slings

The sling is essential to any AK owner, whether you’re a seasoned tactical shooter or just a visitor to the range.

(If you do visit the range, you’ll see that few people use them. I don’t understand this.)

If I were to think of one item that will improve accuracy and stabilize your shot, this would be it.

There are several varieties available, but my favorite is the two-point sling that offers an excellent combination of carry and comfort both for veteran shooters and beginners.

Depending on how you configure your sling to your rifle, you can carry it in just about any conceivable position, from the low ready to slung over your back.

You can also use it in an over-the-shoulder carry so that your hands are completely free to do other tasks.

There are a plethora of manufacturers, but I really like the two-point BLACKHAWK! Dieter CQD Sling.

Blackhawk has an impeccable reputation when it comes to designing gear for the tactical shooter. The Dieter CQD model sling was designed for BLACKHAWK! by tactical guru Duane Dieter.

 

The CQD sling is a very sturdy item, constructed with 1.25-inch T-13 webbing, which is wider and more comfortable than standard fare. This item is designed for carrying your rifle either over your shoulder in a muzzle-up carry or muzzle-down carry.

The BLACKHAWK! Dieter CQD Sling differs from standard AK slings because it uses “HK style”, gated snaphooks.

The spring-loaded snaphook is made with heavy-gauge metal, and although it does take some dexterity to attach or remove, it’s very safe.

To secure it to the forward end of your rifle, you’ll need a sling swivel or a wire loop, depending on your rifle’s configuration.

Bottom line: It’s exceedingly comfortable to use.

MSRP is around $44, but you can purchase it for as little as $34.66 on Amazon.com, including shipping.

The new Blue Force Gear Standard AK Sling also is a good bet. Designed by another tactical guru, Larry Vickers, what differentiates this sling from others designed for the AK is a pull tab that allows you to make adjustments on the fly. This option is handy at the range, but if you’re in the field and need to attend to business quickly and without distraction, it’s crucial.

It comes with a loop that utilizes a heat-resistant, non-marring, nylon-coated stainless-steel cable. This is a $25 value alone, so combined with the sling, I think it’s a good deal.

While the pull tab is a modern innovation, this sling has elements of the old and new. For example, the coyote brown-colored nylon strap hearkens back to the old Soviet days.

In addition, the hardware, which is super-durable polymer, matches the famous plum coloring of the old-fashioned Soviet furniture. The apocryphal story is that the Russians actually wanted black furniture, but the factory didn’t get its dye quite right. There are other variations of the story, so believe what you like.

As I’ve been advocating in this book, a great deal has to be said for minimalism and the traditional, military style sling from Arsenal fits this definition. Fit, function, and construction are first class. It’s manufactured from canvas and comes in green with a black, anodized snap hook attachment. I found it easily adjustable and comfortable. If you’re not sure how to attach it, fear not, there’s a video that shows you how. Prices for these slings begin at $10 and go up to about $30 depending on whether the item is imported from Russia or Bulgaria or, whether it’s of nylon or canvas construction. The sling featured in the photo is $17. If you’re not using it with a traditional, wood stock, you may need a swivel sling loop or two to attach it to the rifle.

AK WIKQD Sling Mount

The AK WIKQD sling mount from RazorSix Tactical allows AR-type slings to be adapted to most AK rifles with a quick-detach (QD) system. It’s a very clever design that clamps onto real estate available on the gas block.

According to the company, the mount has been field-tested in combat conditions and has proven to be 100 percent reliable with no failures or accuracy issues. It works on virtually all AK variants, including AKS, AKM, RPK, Israeli and South African Galils.

It does not affect the accuracy or harmonics of the AK. Made from 6061 aluminum, it is anodized black and laser-engraved with the company’s diamond logo. Priced at $40, RazorSix offers a lifetime warranty on the product.

To install it, simply remove the gas tube and nudge the AK WIKQD into position.

I needed to use a screwdriver blade to force the clamp open a bit, which is all it took to slide it into place. You cinch it down with a Philips screw and a little Loctite. There’s a cavity for the QD mount.

I thought the little device worked perfectly. It’s about as forward as you can put a mount, and in my book this was a big plus, because it affords you more muzzle control.

 

Bolt-Hold-Open (BHO) Magazines

Anyone familiar with the AR platform knows that when you’ve expended your last round, the bolt remains open.  It’s always nice to know you’re out of ammo, and for safety’s sake you can visually check whether there’s a round in the chamber.

A standard AK does not have this feature, but you can go to a gunsmith who will be able to engineer a bolt-open solution.

Marc Krebs of Krebs Custom suggests that although A BHO follower is good for range or target work, it’s not optimal in situations where magazine changes must be done quickly.

SGM Tactical, a company out of Knoxville, Tennessee, manufactures bolt-hold-open magazines in .308, 7.62 and 223. It is one of the few companies that makes gear specifically for the VEPR as well as other AKs. I’ve been using its 7.62 BHO mag for about a year with a Saiga, and it works perfectly. Price is $34.95.

Option B is to add a bolt-open-feature to your own magazine by installing a special follower.

A company called WeaponTech offers a drop-in replacement for standard AK47 metal and polymer magazines designed for 7.62×39.

WeaponTech is a venture between the inventor, Dimitri Mikroulis, and Primary Arms. Called the “WeaponTech BHO Follower,” you will need to disassemble your magazine to install it.

To do this, you take off the magazine’s floor plate, remove the spring, take out the original follower and add the new one designed by Dimitri. It’s not difficult — there are a number of videos that will show you how disassemble a magazine.

The main thing to watch out for is the spring inside the magazine. It’s under a lot of tension and it can pop out and impale your eye, if you’re not careful. Safety glasses are a good idea. Anyone who has taken apart a magazine will understand what I mean.

You can get a three-pack for $14.95. I think it’s a great product.

One last point to remember with a BHO magazine:

When you remove the magazine from the rifle, the bolt will snap shut, as it normally would after the firing cycle is complete.

I forgot that once and got a painful reminder as the bolt pinched my finger.

Start with the Right Mount

If you’re going to invest in an optic and don’t have a rail or handguard system that will allow you to place it on your rifle, you’re going to need a separate item called an optics mount. These clamp onto a bracket located on the left-hand side of the receiver — assuming your AK has a bracket; most, but not all, do. There are a number of mounts on the market ranging from not-so-great stuff imported from China to well-made products from Russia or the U.S.

The engineering challenge for these devices has been to build something that will work with all — or at least a great majority — of the AK variants. This is a tall order.

As I outlined earlier, there are inevitable discrepancies in the specifications among manufacturers when it comes to positioning of the rail, thickness of the receiver, and so on. Thus, obtaining a one-mount-fits-all solution is impossible. The lesson is that before you purchase an optic, be certain that the item you acquire will operate correctly with the mount and model of your AK.

There are some decent scope mounts out there. One I’ve tested is the SM-13 from Arsenal. It’s a rock-steady unit that is slung low — close to the dust cover. It will work with the VEPR, Saiga and Arsenal. The only thing it won’t do is allow you to co-witness. The ability to co-witness (see below) is not a must-have, but is certainly desirable.

Co-witnessing

Co-witness refers to the relationship between the optical sight and the AK’s fixed or iron sights. When you co-witness you’re able to align your iron sights in tandem with your red dot optic. Where the red dot locates in the optic (middle or bottom 1/3) is a matter of preference.

The illustration above shows the red dot in a co-witnessed position resting directly above the post. This means that the two sighting systems are zeroed for the same distance and windage. Both the Aimpoint and the Primary Arms optics allow you to co-witness on a Saiga using the RS Regulate mount.

RS Regulate Mounting System

The system favored by all the professionals I’ve interviewed is manufactured by a company called RS Regulate. It permits you to mount your optic very low (close to the barrel) while centering it over the rifle’s bore.

RS Regulate has developed a mounting technology that accommodates some of the more popular optics brands and will generally, depending on the optic, allow you to co-witness. It’s modular so that you can pick and choose an adapter designed for a specific optic.

The RS Regulate products are a bit more expensive than the competition, but work the best.

Dust Cover/Rail Systems

In addition to side mounts there are other rail systems engineered to fit over the rifle’s dust cover.

In the case of the “Dog Leg Rail,” made by Texas Weapons System, you actually swap out your existing dust cover with the TWS product that has a rail on the top surface. Based in Austin, Texas, the company has made a name for itself with this practical, reasonably priced dust cover/rail combination. Their “Dog Leg Rail Gen 2” gives you the option of using the rifle’s standard sights or an optic while keeping the same cheek weld. The Dog Leg’s low mount also gives you a great platform to co-witness.

The TWS Dog Leg is a two-part system. In addition to the actual dust cover, it comes with a replacement take-down button at the rear of your receiver, which is part of a proprietary recoil spring guide.

The unit is well-finished and engineered to close tolerances. The result is an extremely tight-fitting dust cover that will hold zero even if you have to open and shut it. Be advised you’ll need more thumb pressure to depress the button and remove the cover.

TWS also offers an M4-like aperture that can be placed at the rear end of the rail. This nearly doubles the sight radius. There are other similar options from companies such as Krebs Custom, but at $310, it’s nearly double the price of the TWS offering.

Installation is straightforward. The front end of the Dog Leg system fits into the rear-sight block with a supplied hinge pin. You’re also required to swap out the guide rod and add the existing recoil spring. Instructions are provided in the box and on a pdf file. The company also has an instructional video.

I think the TWS system is a good option, especially if co-witnessing is important to you. The available real estate for placing an optic runs the full length of the receiver cover. The combined rail and dust cover is really light, so unlike a separate rail system, it’s not going to add any substantial weight. This is a noteworthy advantage from the get-go.

The TWS product is priced at $139.99 for AK 47/74 or Yugos. A Dog Leg for the Romanian PSL is $174.99. The aperture rear sight (for another $39.99) is a welcomed addition.

Another mounting system to consider is from a company called Sabrewerks. Their Kalashnikov Optics Platform (KOP) replaces the rear sight block on your AK rifle and offers a dove-tailed mounting platform that allows you to put different rails and proprietary mounts for just about every popular optic. The advantage of “KOP” is that it provides a very solid, low slung base that permits optics to be rapidly interchanged. Another nice touch is that many of the mounts have an integrated fixed iron rear sight which provides co-witness capability. The KOP system also doesn’t add too much extra weight to your rifle. The Trijicon RMR mount, adds a total of only 1.5 oz (including the optic). It’s also mounted on the portion of the rifle that remains stable during firing.

The only downside to this platform is that in order to set it up you’ll need the help of a gunsmith to replace your sight block with the KOP base. (This is not the kind of job the average person can do). In doing so, you’ll end up swapping out the lever that locks down your gas tube in exchange for a pin that does the same thing. You’ll have to pay a gunsmith about 1-1 ½ hours for his labor. Cost for the KOP base is about $130 or less and anywhere from $80 to $160 for individual optic mounts.

UltiMAK, a Moscow, Idaho company has a propriety rail system with quite a few adherents in the Kalashnikov community. One of their flagship products for the AK is the UltiMAK Model M1-B which mounts very low atop the barrel, well under the iron sight axis, making it the lowest optic mount available for the AK. This geometry allows for co-witnessing when used with a reflex sight such as the Aimpoint or an Aimpoint clone. The MI-B replaces the original gas tube and upper handguard, by combining both components into one solid unit. In doing so the entire assembly adds less than one ounce to the weight of the rifle.

Adding the unit to your rifle is straight forward and UltiMAK provides both detailed instructions (with color photos) and a helpful video. I mention this because all too often instructions for aftermarket products are an afterthought.

To add the gas tube/rail you first remove the upper and lower handguards and attach two U-shaped mounts that clamp onto bottom of the barrel. The clamps are needed to affix the UltiMAK Optic mount because it’s designed to be cinched down to the barrel. This is different from the stock gas tube which is held in place by being wedged between by the gas block and the rear sight block. The UltiMAK system is actually a bit shorter than the stock gas tube so that it can expand and contract from heat fluctuations without effecting the mount.

The only “tricky” part on the install was making certain the rail was perfectly squared over the bore. I did this by aligning the rail with rear sight block and then tightening the bolts. UltiMAK founder Lyle Keeney says that it’s not necessary to add Loctite. I’ll take his word for it.

Although some have voiced concern about potential damage to a red dot generated by heat from the gas tube, I think this anxiety is misplaced. Unless you’re going to be simulating full auto–mag dump after mag dump—the rail is not going to get inordinately hot. Even if it gets warm, a quality red dot such as an Aimpoint will stand up to the abuse. Larry Vickers, one of the top trainers in the country, told me that he’s never had an issue in any of his classes with an overheated UltiMAK rail impacting an optic.

The bottom line is that this gas block/rail system adds very little weight to the front end and offers the operator a wide field of view. This means potentially faster target acquisition. It’s also an extremely stable platform, much improved from the stock upper CAA handguard on my Saiga.

Using the M1-B was a pleasure. Prior to installing the UltiMAK my preference had been to use a side-rail-mounted optic in order to keep the front end as light as possible. AKs are heavy guns from the get-go and I was leery of mounting anything on the front. I was also used to having an optic closer to my eye.

However, I was won over after using this unit. In testing the M1-B, I added the Micro-Max B-Dot from Hi-Lux, an Aimpoint clone. The few ounces of extra weight did not change the balance of the rifle and on the plus side, target acquisition was improved. My suggestion is that if you are going to put a red dot on the front, use one that is lightweight.

Price for the M1-B is $98 and although you don’t need a gunsmith to add the part on some of the models you may have to do some filing or even wood working depending on the rifle, to make everything fit properly. (This wasn’t the case with my Saiga).

The company offers these systems for Russian guns such as VEPRs and Saigas; and for others such as Bulgarian, Hungarian, and “Yugo” models. They also manufacture a number of different styles of rails and sell a variety of AK parts such as furniture, grips, etc.

If you’re unsure about where on the rifle to mount your red dot, before investing in an UltiMAK or any other rail system, Marc Krebs of Krebs Custom advises that you simply tape your optic on the rifle to determine your preference. If you’re more comfortable with the optic over the receiver get a side mount unit. If you like it over the handguard, UltiMAK, Midwest Industries, Krebs Custom and other companies manufacture good systems.

Mating the Optic with a Mount

When buying an optic for an AK keep in mind you’re really shopping for an optic and a mount.

Obviously, you’ll want a combination that will function harmoniously with the rifle. I would strongly suggest checking the manufacturer’s specs before you buy. You can get a number of hints on matching mounts with optics by reading the Tim Yan interview in this chapter.

 

AK Optics

There is a plethora of optics available for the AK platform. The most popular, by a long shot, are “red dot” sights which are lightweight and easy to use in a wide range of lighting conditions. They offer the advantage of rapid target acquisition — even if it’s a moving target. This makes them excellent for self-defense, hunting, plinking and shooting at paper or metal at the range.

They come in a wide spectrum of prices ranging from $100 or less for products from Primary Arms to military-class gear from companies such as Trijicon or BROWE that will cost $1,000 or more.

Most red-dot sights are not magnified. That said, you can get separate optics from several manufacturers that will provide magnification, but they are not cheap.

There are several excellent, inexpensive red dots available from companies such as Primary Arms, Vortex, Burris and others that work very well with the AK. Or you can go high-end with Trijicon or Aimpoint.

The majority of red dot sights fall under the classification of “reflex sights.” This means the aiming reticle—whether it be dot, triangle or chevron, is projected forward from a point behind the objective lens (the lens closest to the object) and is then reflected off the back of the objective lens assembly toward the shooter’s eye. Although it seems like a laser beam is projecting toward your target, this is not the case. The reflex sight has no laser and does not emit a substantial amount of light towards the target.

Holographic sights essentially use the same technology as the reflex sight in that a sighting reticle is superimposed on your view via a hologram. Without getting into the sordid details, I suggest you do a search for “holography” to get a better understanding. Holographic or holosights are popular with a lot of AK users and I suggest trying one out at a dealership to get a feel for them.

EOTech Weapon Accessories and Burris are well respected manufacturers in this space. Prices for holographic sights range from $50 to more than $1,000, if you combine them with magnifiers.

For further reference, UltiMAK’s web page provides an excellent explanation of the application and use of electronic sights.

 

Two Popular Optics: Aimpoint T-1 and H-1 and Primary Arms MD-FBGII

The Aimpoint T-1/H-1 series and the Primary Arms Micro Dot with Fixed Base MD-FBGII look alike from a distance. Their size and weight are similar but the resemblance ends there. The Aimpoint, manufactured in Malmö, Sweden, is a top-of-the-line, military-grade optic that sells for more than $600. It is considered the ne plus ultra of the red dot universe. The Primary Arms model is a Chinese-made (Aimpoint) clone and sells for $79.

The attribute they share is that both may be used with the RS Regulate scope mount.

This style of optic works well with an AK because it’s so light. Keeping the weight down, plus getting the opportunity to co-witness, are compelling reasons to buy either one of them.

Given the price disparity, is it fair to compare the two?

In the “micro dot” optics universe, there aren’t too many options.

The Bushnell TR 25 has the same internals and optics as the Primary Arms model. They are even made in the same factory. I believe the Primary Arms MD-FBGII is a good deal if you’re going to need a red dot for the range or other recreational activities.

The red dot will not be as crisp as the much more expensive Aimpoint system, but that’s to be expected. Sometimes the dot looks more like an elongated squiggle or blob, but this effect is in part due to one’s own eye physiology. You may find it kind of irritating at first, but paradoxically it becomes pretty much a non-issue when you’re shooting. I find that you can control his effect by keeping the power setting low. The lower the intensity power, the more precise the dot. 

Size-wise, the H-1 and the Primary Arms are the same length but the Primary Arms micro is 0.2 inch narrower than the Aimpoint. The Primary Arms is a fraction taller because its brightness dial is on top. The Primary Arms micro weighs about 20 grams more, but that’s negligible. Its fixed base permits mounting close to the bore and the 4:30 position of the emitter allows for co-witnessing.

Windage and elevation adjustments on the Primary Arms product are made by turning tiny slotted screws. What I didn’t like was that the obligatory arrows that tell you which direction to turn are so faintly imprinted you need eyeglasses to see them.

I liken Aimpoint microdots to the ACOG series of scopes from Trijicon that everybody seems to want (whether they really need it or not). It’s no surprise. These are really well-engineered, precision instruments. Like the ACOGs, Aimpoint models are used by the military atop M4s and some light machine guns. They are battle-proven, sturdy, and waterproof.

Unlike the Primary Arms unit, where the brightness dial sits atop the scope, the H-1 has its adjustment control on the right side of the scope body. The dial is indexed with 12 levels of brightness whereas the Primary Arms scope has 11. The intensity knob on the Aimpoint is easier to turn than the Primary Arms model and stops at the “0” and “12” increments. Thus, you don’t even have to look when you’re turning it off. (The Primary Arms dial just keeps on turning).

Windage and elevation adjustments on the H-1 are done with the actual dial covers. You simply flip them over and use them as keys to turn the dials. Unlike the nearly invisible arrow on the Primary Arms, the inside of the caps have a clearly defined arrow telling you which direction to turn. The engineers in Sweden clearly spent some time thinking about this stuff. By using the caps as tools, you’re also more likely to put them back on when you’re finished tweaking, and thus are less like to put them aside and lose them. (Well, that’s the theory …)

Interestingly enough, they both use the same CR-2032 coin battery but the Aimpoint’s life is five years (50,000 hours) vs. 1,000 hours for the Primary Arms.

Conclusion

The moral of the story is that not everybody needs a military-grade optic. The Primary Arms scope represents a good value for someone who wants the advantages that the RS Regulate system affords but doesn’t have the discretionary funds (or the need) for an Aimpoint.

I’ve had a Primary Arms micro dot for years and it still works after plenty of abuse. It doesn’t have the refinement and durability of the Aimpoint, but it also doesn’t cost $600.

More Optics Options

There are several other choices that lay in between the $79 Primary Arms product and the $600+ item from Aimpoint.

One line of red dot optics that I’ve grown to like over the years is from a family-owned company called Ultradot. Their entry level product is the Ultradot 30, which is a compact, lightweight tubular sight that was designed for Bullseye competition. If you go to a match anywhere in this country, you’ll see a lot of Ultradot’s mounted on 1911s.

I happen to think any of their tube type sights are a great choice for an AK. At 3.9 ounces, the Ultradot 30 is really light.

The optics are also quite good — up to par with much more expensive glass.

The 4 MOA red dot is surprisingly crisp and features an 11- position, adjustable brightness dial. The more expensive Ultradot models, such as the Ultradot Match, offer adjustments for light intensity as well as a separate dial to change the size of the red dot.

Engineered in the U.S., the Ultradot line is manufactured in Japan. Because they were designed to work with the hard recoil of a 1911, they are built to take a pounding. I’ve owned several of their models and have had no problems with them.

I mounted my Ultradot on an Arsenal scope mount using 30mm rings, but it also works with the RS Regulate system. Note that but because of its configuration (it’s about 5 inches long) it needs to be mounted with RS Regulate’s longer-railed AK-303 model and fitted with two 30mm ring mounts.

At $190, including a lifetime warranty, the Ultradot 30 is a superb deal. If you really want to save money, check out the bulletin boards of bullseye shooters where you can pick up a used Ultradot for about $100.

Another inexpensive red dot optic that is favored by our optic’s guru, Tim Yan, is the Vortex StrikeFire II.

Vortex is a Wisconsin-based company but manufactures its products in Asia. The StrikeFire II is made in China. At $179, it’s not going to break the bank and the quality (plus its warranty) is quite good.

The first thing that strikes you about the Strikefire II is how robust it is. It’s built like a tank and screams “tactical.” The single-piece chassis is compact and weighs in at 7 ounces. It’s a little heavier than the micro dots and tubular models from Ultradot but reportedly can handle a lot of abuse.

It’s a snap to mount on an AK. It comes with a cantilever-type mount for an AR, but you’ll dispense with that if you use the RS Regulate system with their 30mm ring.

Unlike other tubular-type optics, the Strikefire requires only one ring, which secures the unit in the middle of its casing. You can make horizontal and vertical adjustments using the top of the plastic caps which have a ledge that fits into the screw tops. Aimpoint uses the same system and it’s a very thoughtful adaptation.

One of the most important points is the quality of the Strikefire’s red dot, which is surprisingly good for the price.

Another very big plus I discovered using this scope is that in concert with the RS Regulate mount it will co-witness with a VEPR. One cannot do this with an Aimpoint or any other micro dot that I’m aware of.

I looked at the red-only version, which Tim Yan prefers, because it’s brighter than the green-red version.

The Lithium CR2 battery has a life at maximum brightness of 300 hours. It also has an automatic 12-hour shut-off, which is very handy for people of a certain demographic (such as myself). As an optic designed for plinking, hunting and the range, it’s ideal, especially for the price point.

Another one of Tim Yan’s favorites is the 2 MOA (minute of angle) Hi-Lux Micro-Max B-DOT. Call it a T-1 alternative or an Aimpoint clone; it’s a sturdy little red dot priced at around $200 with an impressive life of 55,000 hours (6.2 years) on a CR2032 battery. Thus it’s equivalent to the $700 Aimpoint when it comes to staying power.

Of course, you can use it on any mount that will accept an Aimpoint. The unit has 12 brightness settings accessible on a dial atop the aluminum housing. The lowest two settings work with night vision. The scope will automatically shut down after eight hours of use (with the factory default settings) but you can configure it manually for anywhere from between 2 to 12 hours.

The elevation and windage adjustments elicit positive clicks that move the point of impact 0.5 inch at 100 yards (1/2 MOA). Like the Aimpoint and the Vortex Strikefire, the tiny caps that cover the adjustment knobs have little flanges that can be inserted into the notch at the top of dial, so that you can tweak the elevation or windage without using a coin or screwdriver.

Two flip-up lens covers are included as well as an extra battery that resides inside the battery cap. This is a sturdy little beast. The finish on this product is also excellent

The quality of the red dot is crisp and shines intensely, even in bright daylight.

When you consider the Micro-Max B-Dot, along with the Strikefire II and Primary Arms scopes, which are manufactured in China, it’s clear that the Chinese have come a long way in improving the quality of their optics.

This scope is fully submersible and has been used at temperatures as low as -85 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 167 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s been tested with a semi-auto .338 Lapua, which has more than a healthy kick, and passed with flying colors.

I think this product is well worth a look.

If you’re going to use an AK in the 100+ yards range and you don’t want to spend a lot of money, consider the Primary Arms 1-6x scope with the ACSS (Automatic Combined Sighting System) Reticle.

This style of reticle which is designed for a 7.62 x 39 cartridge is generally what you’d find on a much more expensive scope such as a Trijicon or a Browe.  (Note that there are many variations of reticles, including dots, posts, circles, scales, chevrons or a combination of these).

The scope utilizes a battery to illuminate the reticle for low light conditions. If you’re shooting during daylight hours it’s generally not even necessary to switch on the illumination.

Eye relief, at up past 4 inches, is quite good. (Eye relief is the distance from the last surface of an eyepiece at which the user’s eye can obtain the full viewing angle. If a viewer’s eye is outside this distance, a reduced field of view will be obtained).

The 6x zoom provides a ton of flexibility so that you can engage targets at a wide-ranging distance envelope. The reticle offers a bullet-drop compensator and other nifty little tables that allow you to estimate the range and other variables such as the wind.

To set up the reticle properly, you’ll need to sight in the dot at the center of the horseshoe at 100 yards.

At 10 ¾ inches, weighing in at 17.4 ounces, this is not a small scope. If most of your shooting is off the bench, this won’t be an issue. If you’re going to be shooting long distances, you will absolutely need it.

Priced at around $280, this optic isn’t going to equal what you’d get with the expensive glass. However, if your plans entail shooting at the range rather than doing a tour in Afghanistan, this scope is perfectly adequate.

On the other end of the optics spectrum is a new import from Wolf Performance Optics which is now bringing in the PSU 1x/4x variable zoom optical gunsight, a high end scope from Russia. This model utilizes some very advanced technology and employs top of the line SCHOTT glass from Germany for its lens and prism. According to our optic’s maven, Tim Yan, at 4x the image quality and contrast is reportedly exceptional. The BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator) on the reticle is calibrated for a 62 grain (5.56mm) round to 800 meters but Tim reports that AK users will be able to use a 5.45x39mm bullet out to 300 yards. Additionally, Wolf offers a commercial 60gr 5.45×39 load that will match the 62gr 5.56mm NATO to 500+ yds. Price is around $1400. AK-74 users should be very happy.

Upgrading to custom sights

Once you get more familiar with your rifle, you may want to change out your rear sight. A rear sight upgrade can be an inexpensive way to tighten up your groups and improve target acquisition.

You owe it to yourself to check out an aperture sight (also known as a peep sight) which you may find to be an improvement on the classic AK rear sight.

Why? Of course everyone has different preferences, but for many, an aperture has more intuitive feel.

Even with decent eyesight it’s not possible to clearly focus on both sights and the target. Since the rear sight will tend to be somewhat unclear, in my experience you can more readily place the post in the center of a ring than in the center of a notch. The brain naturally understands centering an object within an aperture. Another advantage with the peep sight is that some shooters will find it easier to aim with both eyes open compared to the stock sight.

If you’re shooting offhand and need quick target acquisition an aperture can be advantageous. There are several iterations you can purchase from either Red Star Arms, Krebs Custom, Arsenal and, Circle 10 AK.

 

The Red Star Arms version, called the “Combat Sight,” is actually manufactured by a company called Mojo Sights. It’s fully screw-adjustable for elevation and windage and sells for $49.95 on the Red Star Arms website.

The other version is the Krebs Custom AK Aperture Sight. Coated with a black oxide finish, it differs from the Mojo product because the elevation is adjusted by using the original rear sight’s elevation slide. Price is $64.99. I’ve used both and like them equally.

A third option is the new U-Notch “hybrid” rear sight from Circle 10 AK. It combines features of the classic notched sight and the peep sight. You use this by aligning the circles on the front and rear sights and placing the post in a six o’clock position on your target. I had a chance to try this system out a few times at the range prior to publication of this book and am totally hooked. Target acquisition is fast and it’s an intuitively comfortable to use. For $52, I think it’s a great investment. There are also such as dust covers and rail systems with apertures mounted much closer to your eyes than the traditional rear notch sight. The companies that manufacture these systems are Krebs Custom, Texas Weapons Systems and a company called Tech-SIGHTS. The prices for these products range from around $100 to $300.

Keeping it Traditional

If you’re a traditionalist, you can go with an improved version the original sight. There are several companies that have products I would recommend. Krebs Custom and Jim Fuller’s Rifle Dynamics both make a variation on the traditional AK sight.

Essentially, they have modified the original by rounding the edges of the rear sight and widening the notch. The result: both products offer clearer, cleaner sight pictures by making the eye naturally align with the sight notch. The Krebs product is priced at $39.95 and utilizes the original elevation slide. The Krebs Fast Acquisition Rear Sight also has rounded edges but uses the rifle’s original elevation slide. It’s priced at $39.95.

The Rifle Dynamics unit comes with its own elevation slide and is priced at $90.

If you’re going to spend most of your time shooting off a bench, the traditional sight will serve you well.

Another variation to the traditional sight, sold by Arsenal, is the RPK style rear sight (which is standard on the VEPR). It allows for both elevation and windage adjustments on the slide. I’ve used it on my own VEPR and can say from personal experience how convenient it is to have both adjustments available in the same place. Price is $85.

If you’re going to shoot in low light situations Meprolight, an Israeli concern, offers “Tru-Dot Night Sights” for AK-47 rifles. It resembles an ordinary AK rear sight but there’s a tritium dot on both the notches and the sight post as you’d find on some handguns. Justin McMillion of JMAC Customs, which manufactures aftermarket AK parts, is a big fan of this product. He said that the sights help him shooting in low light and are even are easier on the eyes during normal daylight hours. The other advantage is that you can adjust windage on the rear sight using a small screwdriver. His only complaint was that it was necessary to lock down the front post as it wasn’t as tight as he would have preferred. Price is $109 on Amazon.

Circle 10 AK sells a number of sights, including their own U-Notch Peep Sight for $51.95. This is the invention of Circle 10 AK founder Luke Williams and it has already received attention from government agencies.

K-var also has a variety of front and rear AK sights to choose from.

An AK Optics Buyer’s Guide from
Tim Yan

Several years ago while wandering the floor of the SHOT Show at the Las Vegas Convention Center, I literally bumped into Tim Yan. It was a fortuitous meeting.Tim is a freelance writer and contributor to Shotgun News, Guns &Ammo: Book of the AR15, Guns & Ammo Handguns, Guns & Ammo: Book of the AK47, Be Ready!, and other publications. He’s also the resident optics editor for The Firearms Blog.

A five-year veteran of the U.S. Marine Corps, he served as a marksmanship instructor in the 1st Marine Division deployed in Somalia and the Iraq.

He knows his way around optics and has some great suggestions on what to look for when purchasing optics and mounts for an AK. For anyone contemplating the purchase of an optic, this interview is a must read.

Q: You did a major piece on AK mounts for Guns & Ammo magazine. What did you discover about AK scope mounts in doing the research for that piece?

A: There are really only two suitable locations to mount an optic on an AK: the side mount on the receiver and the handguard/gas tube mount.

Not all AKs have the receiver-side mount. However, it’s relatively easy for a gunsmith to install one on a stamped receiver.

Q: What do you think about the utility of the Texas Weapon Systems and Parabellum “Dog Leg”- style rail dust covers?

A: The Texas Weapons Systems and Parabellum dust covers and rear sights are OK for the recreational shooter.

Q: If you were to recommend a couple of quick-detach-style scope mounts for the AK, what would they be and why?

A: Any of the RS Regulate modular models: the Arsenal SM-13; Midwest Industries’ AK side-rail flat-top; single and dual 30mm ring-type scope mounts will work. All of them, except for the Midwest Industries flat-top mount, offer very low-bore axis but still allow removal of the dust cover. (Editor’s Note: Midwest Industries has just come out with a Ultimak-style rail/gas tube combination).

The RS Regulate design is the best because it allows adjustment for side-to-side sight alignment as well as front and back adjustment for eye relief and field of view.

The Arsenal and MI are made to fit the Russian- and Bulgarian-pattern side rail. They could be a little off for other AK variants.

Q: What about rail systems or handguards to mount optics? Got any favorites?

A: Krebs Custom, Midwest Industries, Arsenal and Manticore Arms are a good bet. The Krebs Custom UFM keymod handguard is nicely made and has a removable 1913 rail top that holds zero. The MI’s offerings come in many options in both the rail interfaces and the dedicated optic top pieces. These include modular, quad rail, keymod or M-Lock. The top half of the MI design is really the modular part with nine different optic-specific interchangeable top covers. This includes options for the popular Aimpoint Micro T1 and 30mm body and the standard 1913 rail.

If you prefer a solid quad rail, Arsenal’s billet handguard, which was originally made for a military contract, has an actual cleaning rod hole that allows you to keep the full-length AK cleaning rod on the weapon. (Billet means that the product was machined from a solid chunk of metal).

Manticore makes a very affordable and good-quality polymer handguard for the Yugo-pattern AK called the Renegade as well as for my favorite, the M92 short-barreled model.

Manticore also offers an optional optic-specific top half designed for the Aimpoint T1 and the Burris Fast Fire type small red-dot sight.

Q: Is it really possible to get a bottom one-third co-witness with an AK scope?

A: Many optics using the MI top cover and the Manticore top half will co-witness with the stock AK iron sight — although in most of those cases it’s more of a lower ¼ co-witness.

As for the receiver side mount, RS Regulate’s Aimpoint T1 and 30mm mount offer a true lower-1/3 co-witness.

Midwest Industry’s 30mm-ring side mount also allows mounting an Aimpoint 30mm body model for a lower-1/3 co-witness.

Q: Can you suggest some budget, midrange and high-end red dots for an AK?

A: The best red-dot sight for AK is the Aimpoint Micro T1 or T2.  It’s small and lightweight but a bit expensive.

The next down at $350 to $400 is the Aimpoint PRO. They are based on the older Aimpoint 30mm tube-size models.

On the more budget end, I really like the new Hi-Lux Micro-Max B-Dot mini-red dot sight. It has flip-up caps and 2 MOA dot like the Aimpoint T2. Its battery life even surpassed the Aimpoint models, with 55,000 hours from just a CR2032 lithium battery, and it carries a spare one in it cap. It also has an Aimpoint Micro compatible screw pattern in its base to use with the RS Regulate direct mount.

We have drop-tested and used this optic on the IWI Negev belt-fed machine gun and it has been tested in temperatures from -85 Fahrenheit to +180 Fahrenheit by Alexander Arms.

It’s also been recoil-tested by firing 300 rounds of .338 Lapua Mag while mounted on an Alexander Arms Ulfberht semi-auto rifle.

During a recent Big 3 Media event in Daytona Beach, Florida we mounted the Hi-Lux on a Rifle Dynamics AK owned by Bill Geissele and did mag dumps until the rifle was too hot to hold. The gas-tube rail was actually red-hot and the little Hi-Lux sight mounted on it was still working fine. Not bad for a $200 sight.

I am not a big fan of the Trijicon RMR or other types of mini-reflex sights in that category, mostly due to their tiny field of view, especially if they are mounted on the handguard position.

Q: Can you recommend a good combination of red dot and scope mount for someone who is buying their first AK?

A: If your AK has a receiver side rail, I would recommend the RS Regulate AK300 direct mount for the Aimpoint or the Hi-Lux.

I prefer mounting the red dot as far back as possible for the maximum field of view through the optic. Scot Hoskisson from RS Regulate likes to mount the red dot just behind the rear sight for the best balance on the weapon.

If your AK doesn’t have a receiver side-rail or has a milled receiver, I would recommend the Midwest Industries’ modular AK handguard with the Aimpoint Micro T1 top cover for the T1/T2/Hi-Lux or the 30mm ring-top cover for the APO/PRO. I prefer the direct mount type because it’s solid mounting and fewer things to go wrong.

Q: What about some hologram optics? Which would you recommend?

A: As far as EOTech’s laser holographic sights go, I recommend the XPS (which has a lower bore height) rather than the EXPS. Actually, all the EOTech models are too high for AK and the battery life is relatively short. Another projection type sight with large square sight ocular window is the Meprolight M5. The Meprolight uses a red dot-style LED projection instead of using laser on the EOTech, and has the battery life close to that of the Aimpoint. However, the Meprolight sights have the same height issue on the AK.

Q: Can you recommend any 1-4x prism scopes?

A: My favorite prism sight is the ELCAN, but like the EOTech they are too high and too heavy for the AK.

I also wouldn’t recommend any of the Trijicon ACOG TA31 4×32 models for AK because of their very short eye relief. The ACOG TA11 3.5x35mm model is better, but it’s big and heavy.

My preferred ACOG for the AK is the TA33 3x30mm Compact ACOG model with the 7.62x39mm bullet-drop compensating (BDC) reticle. If you have a 5.45x39mm caliber AK, then any of the 5.56mm M4 Carbine BDC models would work for you. The trajectory for both calibers are very close to about 300 meters.

There’s a lesser-known ELCAN Specter OS 3.0 3x32mm model that would work just as well as the Trijicon ACOG because it’s the only ELCAN that uses internal adjustment and features the M16 carrying handle-style mounting.

The ELCAN 3x32mm model offers significant bigger field of view and an inch more eye relief than the Compact ACOG 3x 30mm.

The drawback of the ELCAN is its busy reticle. It also lacks daylight illumination, not to mention it’s a good three to four ounces heavier than comparable optics.

On the budget end, I have had success with the Burris AR-332 (3x32mm) and AR-536 (5x36mm) prism sight. Both are in the $350 to $450 price range. Both utilize a version of the Burris reticle that offers a very thick outer ring for fast target acquisition at close range and BDC dots for range out to 600 meters. Both models also have switchable red and green day-visible reticle illumination.

All of the above sights use Trijicon’s ACOG mounting screw pattern and could be used on an RS Regulate ACOG mount for the lowest sight height on an AK.

Now let’s talk about the lower magnification prism sight such as the ACOG 1.5x16mm and the new Vortex Spitfire 1x. Those are great red-dot sight alternatives for those of us who have bad eyesight. By featuring an etched reticle on the glass, those lower-magnification prism sights have a couple of advantages over a red-dot. The reticle will be still useable if the battery dies and it allows for BDC and other shapes in the reticle design.

The etched reticle forces the shooter’s eye to focus on it, which works especially well for those of us with astigmatism.

Q: I see a lot of 1×4 scopes out there. Can you recommend a high end model?

A: On the higher end, I recommend the Meopta MeoTac 1-4x22mm RD tactical scope. Don’t let the price of $999 shock you. The Meopta tactical 1×4 scope is actually at the same level as the Swarovski and Schmidt & Bender in terms of optical performance and daylight reticle illumination, plus it offers a true 1x magnification at the lowest setting.

I think Meopta is the best-kept secret in the premium Euro optics. The Meopta’s BDC are calibrated for the 5.56mm NATO, so it will work just fine with 5.45x39m AK74.

For the 7.62x39mm caliber, since the Meopta’s BDC hash marks are not named, it’s easy to figure out the hold-over for each of the 3 small chevrons.

Q: You did a review several years ago of the CMR (Close-Medium Range) model from Leatherwood Hi-Lux. Would you still recommend that scope for an AK user?

A: I think that is still the best 1-4x scope for the AK.

Leatherwood Hi-Lux is now offering two tiers of the CMR models. There is the original and the CMR4 model with a better grade of glass. The latter has capped turrets with the MIL-MIL adjustment, and the windage turret is relocated to the left side.

Both AK models of CMR have a reticle BDC out to 900 meters for the 7.62x39mm. I actually tested that out to 1,000 yards (914 meters), with a Noveske AR in 300 Blackout, which the ballistic matches on the 7.62×39 mm.

Q: What is your impression of the Russian-produced optics for the AK? Do you recommend them, and, if so, which models do you like?

A: The Russian military uses a variety of combat optics on their AK. Some of those are not available to the commercial market and most are not available in the U.S.

The Russian red-dot sights are, in general, not very good. Most are heavy and have a short battery life. That’s why the Russian special operations forces use Aimpoints and EOTechs.

On the other hand, their prism sights are surprisingly good. For example, the Russian Kashtan 2.8x prism sight has an impressive 13-degree field of view. The PSU model 1x/4x switchable sight I tested is the only alternative to the ELCAN Specter DR.

Keep in mind that if you acquire a Russian optic via mail order, the biggest issues you will have are the warranty and customer service. If anything goes wrong, you may have to ship the item back to Russia for repair.

I don’t trust the Russian postal system and there may be U.S. government restrictions regarding sending weapon accessories to another country.

If you go this route, I would recommend only that you buy optics made in the NPZ (Novosibirsk Instrument Plant) factory for top-quality Russian-made optics.

The good news is that WPA (Wolf Performance Ammunition) will be importing the NPZ-made optics and night-vision scopes to the U.S. market.

Wolf Performance Optics will be handling the customer support and warranty in the U.S. They are importing the PSU 1x/4x, Kashtan 2.8x and the Rakurz 1x prism sight.

The PSU 4x and 6x models will be also imported for the SVD, Saiga and VEPR side mount.

Wolf is also working with RS Regulate to adapt their sights and night-vision for AK mounting.