AK Nomenclature and terms

Suffice it to say, it’s essential that you know your rifle from the inside out.

Part of your job as owner of the rifle is to field-strip (disassemble) it regularly for cleaning and lubrication. In doing so you’ll get to be on intimate terms with your dust cover, bolt carrier, gas tube and other features.

The good folks at UltiMAK have provided us with a breakdown of all the major parts of an AK-47 rifle. The only part they didn’t label was the muzzle brake: it’s just forward of the front sight block.

Furniture

Don’t confuse AK furniture with love seats or rocking chairs. The term simply refers to the exterior parts (with the exception of the barrel and receiver) that come with the rifle. These include the buttstock, pistol grip and hand guards.

The traditional AKs have wood furniture whereas the modern rifles often utilize polymer. Some of the newer designs from companies such as Krebs Custom offer “KeyMod” handguard/rail systems made from aircraft aluminum. KeyMod allows for direct attachment of accessories such as flashlight mounts, laser modules, etc.

Even with aircraft aluminum handguard designs, AKs equipped with polymer furniture aren’t necessarily cheap or cheesy. There are also several advantages with polymer which usually weighs and costs less than aluminum.

There are, of course, different grades of polymer furniture. Arsenal, a well-respected Las Vegas manufacturer of AKs, uses polymer or “synthetic” furniture of high quality. “Plastic” furniture comes in a variety of colors or even in camo. Many people prefer polymer to wood for aesthetic and ergonomic reasons.

Fixed buttstocks are available in the old style “Combloc” (13 inch) length or in the longer NATO version that adds an additional 1.25 inches. If you’re considering the purchase of a fixed-stock rifle (either with wood or polymer furniture) and aren’t familiar with them it’s advisable to shoot one before you buy.

Side rails

On all but the least expensive rifles you’ll find a mount on the left side of the receiver called a “side rail” or a side accessory rail.

The innovation came about in 1953 and was the first quick-detach (QD) optic mounting system.

Since 1991, the side rail has been standard for all rifles made in Russia, Bulgaria and Romania, according to Scot Hoskisson, founder of the optics mount company, RS Regulate.

The side rail allows shooters to add or remove optics such as red dot sights or other types of “glass” from the rifle. Companies such as UltiMAK, Krebs Custom and others also produce a variety of rail systems that can be installed over the top of dust cover but do not utilize the side rail.

AKs are manufactured with two distinct types of receivers—milled and stamped.

Milled receivers are created out of solid chunks of steel.  All the internal guide rails, magazine well and latch surfaces, bolt locking surfaces, bolt carrier stop and the barrel and buttstock receiving sockets are cut from a single piece of metal.

As the name implies, stamped receivers are stamped from a sheet of steel and shaped in a series of bending processes that make them more cost-effective to produce.

The original AK-47, called a Type 1, was stamped but this process was discontinued, as the stamping and assembly technology at the time had unacceptably high rejection rates. As a result, the Soviet manufacturers went to milled receivers. The milled version was solid, but machining is a labor-intensive and, more expensive process. Hence, this line was terminated as well.

The Soviets eventually perfected the manufacturing methodology for stamped receivers (which are lighter than the milled versions) and are still produced today.

The differences between milled and stamped receivers are elucidated on the UltiMAK website.

Whether to purchase a milled or a stamped receiver will be one of the prospective buyer’s major decisions. From a structural point of view, there’s no question that the milled receivers are stronger and do not flex. However, milled receivers are generally more expensive.

Aesthetically, milled receivers are quite pleasing to the eye, and in this regard, most people would consider them superior.

From a purely practical point of view, they may not be your first choice. Milled receivers are inherently more robust, but they are not necessarily “better.”

While prettier, as alluded to above, they also are heavier than the stamped models. If you plan to do a lot of shooting offhand or lugging the rifle around for extended periods of time, heavy is not optimal. In addition to the weight factor, they also cannot use the more commonly available AKM-type aftermarket furniture.

If you’re just going to shoot off the bench, then it doesn’t matter.

As far as which type of receiver can take more punishment, the milled models purportedly last longer than the stamped versions. According to Ron Cheney, Director at Battlefield Vegas, a Las Vegas shooting range which features fully auto AKs, stamped receivers of every brand usually suffer a “catastrophic failure” (cracked trunion) at 80,000-100,000 rounds.

In Cheney’s experience none of the stamped receivers, regardless of price or provenance, fare much better than others as far as longevity. His facility features rifles from different manufacturers including Saiga, Arsenal, Norinco, WASR and others of Hungarian, Polish and Serbian origin. He had particular praise for the much maligned WASR, which he said held up just as well as the higher priced AKs. Cheney said that none of the rifles with milled receivers (to date) has failed due to a cracked trunnion.

What does this mean for the average person?

Probably, not much. First off, very few people will shoot an astronomical number of rounds through a rifle, much less in a fully automatic mode. Cheney reckons that the average stamped AK that is shot semi-auto should last even longer than 100,000 rounds. Unless you’re planning to open up a rifle range, either a stamped or a milled receiver will serve you well.

Furniture

The humble safety lever is usually not high on the customization list for neophytes, but it should be.

I suggest you consider swapping out your stock safety lever for a Krebs Custom model. The Krebs products are an enhancement of the original part because they help the shooter perform a simple but extremely important task —taking full control of the operation of the safety lever. The design allows for continuous finger contact throughout the entire range of motion.

The extended shelf on the lever is ergonomically correct and easy to operate. You can flip the safety with your trigger finger while keeping the shooting hand firmly around the pistol grip.

The location and shape of the lever, a distinct curve, allows the finger to instantly return to the trigger in one fell swoop.

You’re not going to be distracted or lose your sight-picture, even when using an optic.

Another innovation not immediately noticeable to the novice is a bolt hold-open (aka BHO) slot on the lever. The BHO catch allows the operator to easily keep the bolt open so that the range officer can observe whether there’s a round in the chamber.

For years the standard replacement for the stock safety was his Mk VI series ($59), which Krebs designed for Russian-pattern milled and stamped receivers.

The newest addition to the Krebs line is the Mk VII “Ambi Enhanced Safety” ($65.00) made for both left- and right-handed shooters.

Right-handed shooters can manipulate the safety with their index finger and lefties can do so with their thumb.

Quality and finish are first-class on all models. The coating is a durable, smooth matte. The good news is that you don’t have to pay a gunsmith to swap out your safely. Even if you’re a rank amateur, they are easy to install. Simply remove the recoil spring and rotate the old safety toward you. At a certain point, it will pop out of the hole in the receiver. Put the new one exactly where the old one was and rotate in the opposite direction (down). The recoil spring goes in, as does the dust cover. Bingo, you’re done.

In addition to the Krebs Custom series, I’ve heard good things about the R&R Targets safety. The caveat is that it’s not a drop-in. Your gunsmith will have to do some tweaking.

When it comes to adding handguards and other accessories, less can be more. Like many first-time AK buyers, when I got my rifle I started adding third-party parts and went overboard on the “tacticool.” This included items such as a full-length handguard, optics, fore grips, scope mounts and the like. Before I knew it, I was drowning in paraphernalia.

The lesson was that adding some of these components may make sense in some circumstances, such as home defense, but you need to be wary of “mission creep”. Loading up your rifle with gewgaws has its practical limits. For example, if you’re going to be proficient at shooting offhand, shouldering a 10-pound rifle gets old very quickly.

(My epiphany is hardly original. One of Larry Vickers’ maxims is “seriously resist the urge to over-accessorize the gun”.)

Given my own experience, I’ve become a proponent of minimalism.

Custom builders such as Rifle Dynamics, Krebs Custom, Definitive Arms and others strive to keep the weight down by using a combination of polymer furniture (often from Arsenal) and in some instances, even chopping the barrel two inches.

Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics takes the weight reduction process a step further by employing the Bolton Gas Block, a proprietary product manufactured by Venom Tactical.

This cleverly designed product is the latest incarnation of a technology used by the Israeli Galil, the Finnish Valmet RK62 and other rifles, combines both the front sight and gas block into a single assembly. The system allows you to remove the stock front sight block, which diminishes weight on the front end of the AK47/74 and makes handling the rifle easier. (According to Lenny Bolton, the founder of the company, these gas blocks have been proven reliable in combat conditions).

By placing the front sight atop the gas block, the barrel length can be shortened. Jim Fuller has integrated this system on many of his high end rifles. He says that with the proprietary gas block and a shortened barrel, he can take off as much as a pound from the front end. It doesn’t sound like a lot but in practice it’s very significant.

Lenny Bolton states that the shorter sight radius on his gas block/front sight provides faster target engagement. While losing a few inches of sight radius might concern some people, he says that it’s not an issue if you’re going to engage a target under 300 yards. The front sight is adjustable for windage with a simple screwdriver.

Bolton has sold thousands of the $99 gas blocks. However, he suggests that people without extensive experience should let a gunsmith install the part. If you’re interested in researching how to do it, this article in Rifleshooter.com will illustrate how.

If you’re going to use an optic on your minimalist rifle, there are ways to keep the weight down. Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics employs the UltiMAK M1-B optic mount on some of his AKs. This $98 product integrates both the handguard and the gas tube in its design which ends up adding less than an ounce to the rifle.

Lyle Keeney of UltiMAK says that a lightweight red dot atop the rail brings a great deal more “shootability” to a rifle without adding significant weight. It’s still a “minimalist” setup, he insists and is mandatory if you shoot at moving targets, in low light, or at targets of opportunity (requiring fast targeting on short notice).

You can get a wide variety of lightweight polymer handguard sets from K-Var. Their typical upper handguard is simply a U-shaped section of plastic which covers the gas tube. (Note that the gas tube must have a bracket to retain it). If your gas tube doesn’t have one, you can buy an entire assembly (upper handguard plus gas tube) for about $45. Keep in mind that there’s no rail atop this system so if you want to add an optic at a later date, you’ll need to pick up a side mount.

The second part of the equation is the lower handguard. K-VAR sells a variety of them from $23-75. All have a stainless steel heat shield. To add it, simply slip the rear end into the receiver and cinch down the opposite side with a special retainer ring or bracket.

There are two styles of retainers.

To keep a traditional look, you can purchase the standard-issue retainer ring from K-VAR for $30. It’s very solid and has a lever, similar to that on the rear sight block, to keep the lower handguard firmly affixed to the barrel. The only caveat is that with this particular setup you’ll have to remove the gas block and the front sight block from the rifle in order to install it. Removing both these parts takes special tools and is best left to a gunsmith.

If you want to keep your rifle as close to original as possible, this is the best way to go.

If you don’t want to go through the hassle of removing the above-mentioned parts, there’s a second style of retainer ring which consists of two pieces.

There are at least three small companies that make these parts. One of the manufacturers, DPH Arms, has a set screw in the center of their retainer ring to help keep it from shifting. It also has shims so that the same unit can be used on a standard AK or taken off so that the retainer can be used on the larger diameter VEPR barrel.

Generally, adding the retainer shouldn’t take any modifications to the handguard. However, Brian Smithwick of Dinzag Arms (which also manufactures retainers) suggests you create a small bulge on the heat shield with a pair of needle nose pliers if you have an AK-74. This protuberance will position the handguard off the barrel and underpin the fit to prevent the AK-74 handguard from sliding up at the front end of the retainer plate.

 

To install the retainer from Saiga-AK, one must add a notch or divot on the barrel keep the bracket in place.

I didn’t want to adulterate my barrel, nor remove the gas and front site blocks so I decided to go the DPH Arms route. If you are a stickler for detail, professional builders suggest that you use the original equipment retainer from Arsenal but if you don’t have the tools to remove the parts, the two-part brackets will do the trick. The DPH product retails for $44.99 and worked fine.

Both brackets feature a sling mount loop and a hole that secures the end of the cleaning rod. UltiMAK founder Lyle Keeney suggests that if you have a cleaning rod mounted below the barrel you consider removing it to reduced weight. If you need to clean your rifle in the field you can take a bore snake with you.

There’s third type of aluminum retainer available but I would not recommend it. It’s very easy to strip the threads on this item. You’ll want to make sure and purchase a retainer manufactured from steel.

Although the polymer handguards from Arsenal (or similar units made by other manufacturers), are great at keeping the weight down, a KeyMod handguard system is also an option if you feel it’s absolutely necessary to add other accessories, such as a light or a grip to your rifle.

KeyMod handguards, such as the AK-UFM model for AKM rifles manufactured by Krebs Custom, are made from aircraft aluminum and they are really light. At 6.6 ounces (including the Picatinny rail) it definitely falls into the “minimalist” camp.

Another weight saving measure is to change out your buttstock if you’re using a collapsible, AR 15-style system. There are a number of lightweight units available including the Rogers Super-Stoc, the Mission First Tactical “Minimalist” model and the CTR from Magpul. In this chapter (see section below) I’ve reviewed these products and other options that are both comfortable, and lightweight.

The lesson is to think twice before you buying add-ons, such as a full-blown tactical handguard/rail system. If you can eschew adding stuff that you don’t really need, or replace your existing gear with something lighter, by all means do so.

With AKs less is always more.

Co-witness refers to the relationship between the optical sight and the AK’s fixed or iron sights. When you co-witness you’re able to align your iron sights in tandem with your red dot optic. Where the red dot locates in the optic (middle or bottom 1/3) is a matter of preference.

The illustration above shows the red dot in a co-witnessed position resting directly above the post. This means that the two sighting systems are zeroed for the same distance and windage. Both the Aimpoint and the Primary Arms optics allow you to co-witness on a Saiga using the RS Regulate mount.